The Holy Island of Lindisfarne lies just off Northumberland’s north coast close to the border with Scotland. Reached by a causeway, Holy Island is totally cut off from the mainland twice a day when the tide comes in.
With strong connections to both St Aidan and St Cuthbert, Lindisfarne is one of England’s most important centres of early Christianity hence the name, Holy Island.
Thanks to these links the island became a popular pilgrimage site and, to this day, it’s still possible to walk in the footsteps of the early pilgrims to reach Holy Island, following the line of poles that you can clearly see in the sand.
The Pilgrim’s Way is a journey like no other and it’s likely that walking this route will be the highlight of your visit to Northumberland.
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What is the Pilgrim’s Way to Holy Island?
The Pilgrim’s Way is the crossing to Holy Island over the sand and mudflats and is one which has been used for over 1,300 years.
Until the causeway was built in 1954, the Pilgrim’s Way was the only way to reach Holy Island, and following the poles was the only indication that you were on the right (safe) path.
Due to the tides the Pilgrim’s Way can only be walked at certain times of the day. Tide times are posted at each end of the causeway but, you can also find the daily tide times here.
The published tide times are based on reaching Holy Island along the causeway and not across the sand. The official guidance for walkers is to cross on a receding tide around two hours after the earliest safe time and never to cross when the tide is coming in, as it does so very quickly. Most people you speak to in Northumberland will have at least one hair raising tale to tell you about getting caught by the tides so always check the tide times carefully and leave plenty of time for your return journey.
Where does the Pilgrim’s Way to Holy Island start?
The traditional start of the Pilgrim’s Way is at the end of the causeway on the mainland although by walking along the main road for a short distance as far as the causeway refuge hut, access to the sand is easier.
It can be busy with traffic heading to and from Holy Island so do be careful when you’re walking on the causeway.
How do you get to the start of the Pilgrim’s Way?
By car
Whether you’re driving north from Newcastle or south from Berwick-upon-Tweed you’ll need to turn off the A1 at Beal and follow the signs.
There is limited parking at the end of the causeway next to some concrete blocks.
By bus
Beal is served by Arriva buses X15 and X18 that run between Newcastle and Berwick.
From the bus stop (opposite the filling station) you can walk to the causeway – it’s about two miles.
The Arriva website has a handy journey planner which you can find here.
If you’re coming from Berwick you can also catch bus 477 which stops at the causeway, as well as on Holy Island. However, this doesn’t run every day but you can check the bus times and dates here.
On foot
If you’ve been walking one of Northumberland’s long distance routes such as the Northumberland Coast Path or St Cuthbert’s Way, you’ll reach the causeway by passing through the town of Fenwick.
If you’re really keen on long distance walks in the area there’s also St Oswald’s Way which starts (or finishes) on Holy Island.
Walking the Pilgrim’s Way to Holy Island
I opted to take a guided tour to walk the Pilgrim’s Way and booked with Footsteps in Northumberland.
After meeting Dave, our guide for the day, at the start of the causeway our group of seven walkers headed along the road to the refuge hut where we prepared for the journey ahead. Some of the group wore wellies but most of us were walking barefoot in the footsteps of the pilgrims of old, so it was off with our shoes and socks before heading onto the sand and towards the first of the marker poles in the distance.
Although it was mid-September the weather was pleasantly warm and, surprisingly, the stretches of water we found ourselves paddling through during the walk weren’t as cold as I’d been expecting.
Once you reach the first pole it should be a simple matter of following the remainder of them until you reach Holy Island. However, it’s not that straightforward – some sections have deeper areas of water, others have slippery sections of mud – so we occasionally veered away from the poles to avoid these areas.
Watching a pair of walkers following the poles and then having to backtrack to find a more accessible route made me glad that I’d decided to walk with a local expert. In fact, not only did a guided tour make the walk easier but Dave also had a lot of stories to tell, from historical facts about the area to more recent tales of misadventure by hapless motorists getting caught out by the tide.
Between the poles there are two refuge huts for any unfortunate walker who hasn’t checked the tide times. Basically wooden boxes on stilts, they would enable anyone to climb to safety and call the coastguard. However, they wouldn’t offer much in the way of any real protection from the elements so don’t take chances with the tides.
Further into the walk the sand became muddier and at times it was quite the battle to stay upright as it was pretty slippery. If you’ve got a walking pole or a stick it would come in handy here!
Getting closer to Holy Island there were some patches of sand that were sharp underfoot with small seashells – something to bear in mind if you are walking barefoot. It’s only a short section of the walk though – don’t let it put you off the barefoot experience!
Once you reach Holy Island there’s a small bench to wash and dry your feet, put your shoes and socks back on, and look back on the path you’ve just walked.
In the distance you’ll be able to see the imposing castle at Bamburgh, once home to the Kings of Northumbria.
It’s then simply a case of following the main road to the village.
Things to do on Holy Island
It may only be small at just 3 miles long by 1.5 miles wide and with a population of less than 200, but Holy Island is an extremely popular destination for visitors to Northumberland (650,000 each year) so don’t expect to have the place to yourself!
Remember that you’re at the mercy of the tides and always keep an eye on your watch. There’s a lot to do and see on Holy Island and it would be easy to lose track of time and jeopardise your return to the mainland.
If you’re also walking back across the sand you’ll most likely only have a few hours, as we did, so you won’t get the chance to see everything that Holy Island has to offer but these are some of the highlights to choose from.
Lindisfarne Priory and Museum
You can explore the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory before heading into the museum to learn more about the history of the Priory and the island itself. The Priory was the original home of the famous Lindisfarne Gospels.
The site is run by English Heritage – you can check the latest opening times and entry charges here.
Lindisfarne Castle
Lindisfarne Castle dates back to the mid sixteenth century but it was in 1901 that it was renovated by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the famed English architect.
The castle is run by the National Trust – entry is free to members but booking is still recommended. Booking information including opening times and entry charges for non-National Trust members can be found here.
Boat Sheds
Near the harbour, and up by the Castle, you’ll notice upturned boats – these are old herring fishing boats that have been repurposed as storage sheds.
Lookout Tower
The old coastguard’s lookout tower has been turned into a viewing platform where you can get superb panoramic views of the whole island.
St Cuthbert’s Island
St Cuthbert, after his retirement, decided that a hermit’s life was the one for him so took himself off to this tiny island that you can clearly see from the Lookout Tower. However, it was still too close to Holy Island for his liking so he left to head to the Farne Islands. You can walk over to St Cuthbert’s Island where there’s a small cross. There was a big school party on the island when we were there so we just admired it from afar instead!
Grab a coffee at Pilgrim’s Coffee House and Roastery
If all the walking has left you in need of a caffeine fix I can recommend a visit to Pilgrim’s Coffee House on Marygate at the end of the road as you walk into the village. They had a selection of delicious looking cakes too and you can even take a bag of their own roast coffee home with you.
If you’re lucky enough to be spending the night on Holy Island you’ll also have time to explore the walking trails around the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve, sample the Lindisfarne Mead at St Aidan’s Winery and browse around the local shops and art galleries.
If you are intending to stay overnight you’ll need to book well in advance to secure a bed for the night. It’s also worth noting that there aren’t many places to eat on the island so it’s advisable to make dinner reservations at your chosen restaurant as soon as you’ve confirmed your accommodation.
Walking back from Holy Island
As I was on a guided trip, it also included the chance to return to the mainland via the Pilgrim’s Way.
Walking back was as much a magical experience as the journey there and, because the tide changes constantly, it almost felt like a totally different walk – where previously we’d walked across dry sand, now we were ankle deep in water and vice versa.
Huge groups of seals played on the sand in the distance and we actually heard them before we saw them as their ‘singing’, a low, almost mournful ‘tune’ carries on the wind.
The wildlife you’ll see will depend on the time of year that you walk of course. The seals leave Holy Island for the Farne Islands in October, only returning in March so, walking in September, we timed our walk perfectly.
There was plenty of bird life on the day we walked including oystercatchers, egrets, and sandpipers, and at one point a group of six swans flew low over our heads.
If you’re walking without the benefit of an expert guide or any local knowledge don’t forget to check the tide times again before your return journey. You could possibly walk along the causeway as the tide would give you more time to reach the mainland. However, it’s narrow and likely to be very busy with carloads of returning day trippers.
If you’re in doubt as to whether it’s safe to return to the mainland on foot then don’t risk it.
Frequently Asked Questions about walking the Pilgrim’s Way to Holy Island
How far is the Pilgrim’s Way?
The Pilgrim’s Way is roughly three miles long.
How long does it take to walk the Pilgrim’s Way?
It took us about two hours to reach Holy Island which included frequent stops for Dave to give us lots of information about the history of the walk, the wildlife etc.
Walking without a guide, it’s probably realistic to be able to reach Holy Island in around ninety minutes.
How difficult is the walk?
The Pilgrim’s Way is an easy walk insofar as it’s totally flat. The hardest part is making sure that you don’t fall over as, on some stretches, the mud is quite slippery. If you have a walking pole then it will come in handy to keep you upright but it’s not essential if you just take your time.
Should you walk alone or take a guided tour?
Unless you are confident that you have calculated your tide times correctly then I would strongly suggest, at least the first time, booking a guide.
Not only does a local guide have expert knowledge about the walk itself, but they’ll also be a mine of information about the area’s history and wildlife. Choosing a local guide also means that, using their expertise, you’ll be able to safely enjoy the walk back to the mainland within the safe crossing times.
There are several companies who arrange local guides but I can highly recommend walking with Footsteps in Northumberland.
When is the best time to walk the Pilgrim’s Way?
From a safety point of view the best time to walk is on a receding tide, in good, daylight weather conditions.
In other words:
- Don’t attempt to walk when the tide is rising
- Don’t cross in the dark
- Don’t cross in bad weather conditions or when there’s poor visibility
What should you take with you?
There are a few essentials you should carry when you walk the Pilgrim’s Way.
Footwear. Even if you’re walking barefoot in the traditional way you’ll still need to bring some shoes to put on for walking around Holy Island. If you’re not planning to walk barefoot you’ll need either wellies, walking boots, or sandals that you don’t mind getting wet and/or muddy.
Water. Although it’s not an arduous hike do bring a bottle of water with you. If you don’t drink it all, it will come in handy for washing any mud off your feet and legs at the end of the walk.
Sunscreen. If you’re walking in summer make sure to apply sunscreen and take your sunglasses and a hat too. Even on cloudy days in England it’s easy to get burnt and there’s no shelter from the sun out on the sands.
Warm clothing. A waterproof jacket is a good idea – British weather can be very changeable and you never know when a rain shower might occur! Dressing in layers helps too so you can add or remove items of clothing easily if you need to. Depending on the time of year you might also want to bring a pair of gloves.
Phone. Don’t forget your phone. While you’re unlikely to get into any danger it’s better to be safe than sorry, particularly if you’re not walking as part of a guided tour. The number for the coastguard is 999.
There are a few non-essential, but useful to have items, too.
Towel. If you’re walking barefoot you’ll need to dry your feet at the end of the walk before you put your shoes and socks back on. A small quick drying sports towel is handy and doesn’t take much room in your backpack.
Spare trousers. While I didn’t need these (which is just as well as I hadn’t brought any with me!) it might be worth putting a second pair of lightweight trousers in your backpack. The mud can be very slippery and it’s only by luck that I didn’t fall over (on more than one occasion).
Food and drink. There are places to buy lunch and get a coffee on Holy Island but, certainly during the busy months, it can take a while to get served so if you know your time is limited before you have to head back to the mainland and you want to see at least some of the sights you might want to consider bringing a picnic.
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this and that you’ll find it helpful with planning your own trip to Holy Island. I know I’ve put a lot of warnings throughout this post – please don’t let these put you off considering walking the Pilgrim’s Way. It was one of the best walks I’ve done and shouldn’t be missed if you’re in Northumberland. If you are risk averse, book a local guide – you won’t regret it!
Please feel free to drop a comment below if you have any questions or have walked the unique Pilgrim’s Way to Holy Island yourself.
Happy hiking!
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I have never heard of this! It sounds like a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Thanks for sharing!
It’s a wonderful experience. Most people drive over the causeway once the tide is out so there were very few people walking which I think made it even more special.
Stunning photos and such an interesting post. Brought back so many memories of my childhood holidays in Northumberland. As a kid, I always fancied getting stuck in the tower (the one on the causeway) when the tide came in! – but I’m sure the reality would not be much fun. Would love to revisit the island sometime. Did you experience any kind of spiritual awakenings or aha moments?
Thanks Carole. I must admit I’ve always thought it would be pretty cool to be up in the tower when the tide was in (but during the summer and only daylight hours!!). :O)
The next time I’m in Northumberland I’ve promised myself an overnight stay on the island to really experience it without the crowds of daytrippers. I think that’s when the real aha moments will happen.
This looks like a fascinating walk. I’ve never heard of a hike that goes through low tides like this. It reminds me a little of the Narrows in Utah. I’d love to do this someday. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thanks Paul. It’s a brilliant way to get to Holy Island. I’d only ever driven across the causeway before (which is still a pretty cool experience) but this was a lot more fun. Just glad I stayed upright on the slippery sections! 😉
I’ve always wanted to walk across to Holy Island. I even had it planned one year… then the weather and life got in the way and I never got round to rescheduling. It looks just as cool as I had imagined
We were lucky with the weather as the week before it had been really wet.
A walk across at sunset is on my wishlist the next time I’m in Northumberland.
We visited Holy Island a few years ago but it was part of a day trip, so we crossed the causeway in a car. We now wish we had walked! It’s always lovely to go with a local guide who can not only give you info about the history and wildlife in the area but also knows the route. We loved Lindisfarne so would very much like to return – and cross via the Pilgrim’s Way next time. Lovely post and the photos are fantastic.
Thanks Mitch. I’d only been over the causeway by car before so walking across was a real novelty. Going with a guide was definitely the right thing to do especially the first time. My partner reckons we could do it without next time but I don’t fancy getting stuck in a refuge hut – although it would make a good story!!
We visited Holy Island last year but cycled across on the road towing Jasper in the Doggy Hut. Reading this, I now wish we had opted for the guided walk. I wonder if dods are allowed on the causeway? Either way, I think we’ll do this. I first went to Holy Island in 1980 and had not been again until last year. It is much busier now. I enjoyed this post.
Thanks Jane. Cycling across would be good – I hope Jasper enjoyed it!! I can highly recommend the guided walk with Footsteps in Northumberland. There were a few locals walking their dogs across the sands so you should be ok. Let me know if you go and what you think.
I’ve learnt lots about Lindisfarne during my studies and wanted to go there in 2018. Unfortunately the abbey was closed at the time for construction. Would love to do this walk one day and make sure to bookmark your article as I found it contained lots of informative and useful tips for walking the pilgrims way to the Holy Island.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
It’s such a great walk and the whole of Lindisfarne is a fascinating place. I’m definitely booking ahead and staying overnight next time!
Holy Island definitely looks like our sort if walk. Ive bookmarked fir when we try the ferry from Netherlands ti the North East with henry…
Just be warned that you’ll have a very muddy dog at the end of it!
I would love to take a guided walk of the Pilgrim’s Way when visiting Northumberland. Love the meaningful history.
It’s a great experience and I think walking with a guide makes it even better as they have the local knowledge of the history.
This is such a unique activity. I knew that you can walk to islands in the German North Sea but I never considered that you might be able to do the same in Great Britain! With the cafe and the lookout tower, it does not only seem like a great journey but also a great destination!
It’s one of the best things I’ve done in the area. I’m hoping to do it at sunset the next time I’m up that way.
It only occured to me that pilgrims back in the days are sort of travel influencers, paving way for others to journey to a certain land. The only difference, modern day travelers tend to connect less to the landscape and more to the digitalscape. So nice that you keep writing things on spiritual themed journeys Alison. It reminds us about connection and why we travel in the first place 😉
Jan – https://flyingbaguette.com/
That’s such an insightful way of looking at it.
Never heard about it, but it looks lie a nice experience!
Judging by the photo on one of the warning signs – some people actually drive there instead of walking?! 🙂
Most people drive but the causeway is closed twice a day when the tide comes in so you have to be very careful and check (and double-check!) the tide times as it comes in quickly and cars do often get caught out!
I had not heard of Holy Island before this but it really is an fascinating journey! So happy for you that you were able to do this!
Thanks Peggy! It was such a great way to reach the island, following in the footsteps of the pilgrims of old.
Thank you for this great post. We love Holy Island and try to visit once a year, and this walk is definitely something I want to do. When we were there this year there was a gentleman raising awareness for the MND Foundation and he told me that they have a sponsored walk across the causeway every year. It would be a good challenge to walk the St Cuthberts Way and finish it off with the crossing to Lindisfarne. One of these days!
Thanks for your lovely comment. It’s a fantastic walk so I do hope you get to do it on your next visit. St Cuthbert’s Way is another walk I’d love to do one day so it would be the perfect ending. I’d also love to do the sunset walk to Holy Island across the sands – that’s another for the future!
This looks like a fantastic experience. I’d definitely go with a guide for safety and for the stories. The photos of the ruins of the abbey are beautiful, and I can see myself spending much time exploring Holy Island. It’s going on my list for my next trip to the area.
Holy Island is an amazing place. I definitely plan on going back again.
What an interesting place. The list of items to bring with you is great to have. I would have forgotten some of them for sure. I like how it’s mostly flat as sometimes the energy isn’t there for a hilly and strenuous trek. Good to know that when the tide is receding is the best time to go. Safety first! If I ever get across to try this, I would love to stay a night on holy island and make it a real adventure!
Staying the night on Holy Island is on my wish list – every time I go to Northumberland I check availability and everywhere is always fully booked. I swear you have to book years in advance!
I feel like I have vague memories of going to Lindisfarne. It was the castle that has me thinking yes. But either way I need to go back. I love the idea of the walk, especially with a guide. Although I’m not sure I could do barefoot. Me and the water don’t mix (you should have seen me try snorkeling) so I think I’d be more comfortable in my wellies. Is it wrong I feel like it might be kind of cool to hang out or camp on one of those refuge huts? Maybe not the best idea, but good there are options for the hopeless planner. I love the Pic of the car in the water, there’s always one that thinks their car will make it. I’m going to have to look into Lindisfarne and the Pilgrim’s Way walk on my next non winter trip back home
I would love to climb up into one of the refuge huts – I imagine it’s pretty cool up there especially in summer.
Holy Island is a couple of hours drive from me and yet I’ve never been. I don’t think I could do the walk due to chronic illness but I’d love to drive over and explore!
You should definitely try and make it there. It’s small enough to see in a few hours while the tide is out before driving back.
This is so cool! Tho I’d definitely be nervous about getting the timing right hahah. I’m roadtripping from London to Scotland next summer so I’m making a note to stop by!
Haha that’s why I went with a guide. I had visions of being trapped in a refuge hut if I’d been left to my own devices!