A relaxing visit to Hammam Al Ándalus is one of the best things to do in Córdoba, after a busy day sightseeing. If you’re anything like me you’ll clock up thousands of steps exploring the city so ninety minutes of pure relaxation in a traditional hammam is just the ticket.
A brief history of hammams in Córdoba
Hammams in Córdoba date back to the 10th century, during the height of Al-Ándalus under the Umayyads. Taking their inspiration from Roman baths, they were adapted with Islamic traditions and played a much bigger role in daily life than simply being used as a public bathing space for cleansing the body.
Yes, the hammams of old Córdoba were places of relaxation but they were also social hubs of the community where people would come to meet with friends and carry out business transactions.
The use of hammams declined after the Christian Reconquista in 1236 but now many have been rediscovered and preserved for the traditions to continue.
For more on Córdoba’s fascinating history check out ‘Visiting the Mezquita – Everything You Need to Know‘.
The Hammam Al Ándalus in Córdoba
Located just a short distance from the Mezquita on Corregidor Luis de la Cerda the Hammam Al Ándalus is one of several restored and operational hammams in Córdoba.
Inside it has a traditional layout – typically Moorish architecture including horseshoe arches, tiled baths, mosaic walls, and starry skylights, with flickering candlelight and soft music piped throughout to create a relaxing atmosphere.
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The Hammam Al Ándalus experience – what to expect
So now you know a little about the hammam, I’ll walk you through my experience and give you the lowdown on what to expect when you visit.
Checking in
Arriving at the hammam I was greeted at the reception area and given a coloured wristband before being taken upstairs through a pretty courtyard to a waiting area where I was offered a drink. The type of wristband you’re given corresponds to what massage you’ve chosen so it’s easy for the hammam attendants to find you in the baths when it’s time for your massage.
I was then taken to the changing area. Forget the sterile and unwelcoming changing rooms of your school days, this was a totally different experience. There are individual lockers that are operated by a pin code of your choice as well as individual changing areas separated by curtains, a bank of dressing tables with mirrors, hairdryers and straighteners, and a shower area with separate cubicles each with shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel.
There’s also an area with all the lotions and potions you’ll need at the end of your visit – face creams, body lotions, deodorant, even micellar water and cotton wool pads. I swear it was almost better equipped than my own bathroom at home!
After being shown around the changing area I was given a special hammam towel called a peshtemal and left to get changed. After a pre-hammam shower (which is compulsory) I then went downstairs to the baths where the hammam experience was explained to me.
The baths
There are four baths in the hammam with different water temperatures – the largest is the warm water bath, there are two with hot water, and a smaller cold water bath. There’s also a steam room, as well as a rest area where you can have a mint tea or an ice-cold water to drink.
The light in the hammam is dim and mainly from the chunky candles that are dotted around the rooms and the air is heavy with exotic scents. The only sounds, apart from the soothing background music, are the gentle splash of water and the occasional murmured voices from others in the baths. Silence is golden here!
The idea is to alternate between the baths, and the steam room if you wish, to benefit your skin and your circulation so while I waited to be called for my massage I drifted between the different baths starting with a long soak in the warm water bath.
The hot water baths were like sitting in a lovely bath at home minus any bubbles, while the cold water bath was invigorating to say the least!
In between dips I sat for a while and enjoyed a mint tea in the dim light of the relaxation area before heading to the steam room which smelt divine.
You have to remove your watch before you enter and it was a pleasant change to have no concept of time. You don’t need to worry about missing your massage time as one of the attendants will let you know when it’s time to head upstairs for your treatment.
The treatments
When you make your booking for the hammam there’s a choice of various treatments that you can have although you can, of course, simply come and enjoy the baths and steam room without booking any extras. Each hammam session lasts ninety minutes so, bear in mind, if you have a treatment it means less time in the baths. You can read more about the different treatments further on in this post.
The massage rooms are on the same floor as the changing rooms and, before your treatment, you’re asked to choose which scent you’d like for your massage oil.
I opted for water lily although I was tempted by the mint scent.
I thought I’d booked the Midra 30 treatment which is a 15-minute traditional kessa treatment on a hot stone bed followed by a relaxing 15-minute massage. However, I’d actually booked the Mimma 30 which was a 30-minute massage using essential oils.
I didn’t realise my mistake until I was called for my treatment so although I was disappointed not to get to enjoy the kessa body scrub I couldn’t fault the massage that I had.
There are other Al Ándalus hammams in Andalucia (in Malaga and Granada) as well as in Madrid and Palma, so I’m sure I’ll be going to one of those at some point so I can enjoy the Midra treatment next time.
My masseuse asked me if I’d like her to massage my back and legs or just concentrate on my back. I chose a back only massage – good luck to her dealing with the knots in my shoulders! She also asked what strength I’d like so I opted for a medium massage – I made the mistake of asking for a hard massage once in Dubai. Never again!
It was such a relaxing massage and my time was up before I knew it. It was so lovely to just lie on the bed while she eased all the tension from my back and shoulders. I think I may even have dozed off once or twice.
After my massage I went back down to the baths for the rest of my session – just long enough to float for a few more minutes in the hot water bath.
What to wear in Hammam Al Ándalus
Women have to wear a swimsuit or bikini, while it’s trunks for men. This is not a hammam where nudity is accepted. Most women were wearing bikinis as it obviously makes it easier to do a massage when your bikini top can be untied.
If you have long hair it needs to be tied up while you’re in the baths.
What treatments are on offer at Hammam Al Ándalus?
There are plenty of choices on offer so you’re bound to find something that suits you and your budget. All treatments include time spent in the baths before and after.
- Mimma – this is a massage using essential oils of your choice. You can opt for a 15-, 30-, 45- or 60-minute massage.
- Midra – this is a 15-minute body purification ritual on a hot stone bed using natural soap and a kessa glove, followed by a 15- or 30-minute massage.
- Jazzar – this option starts with a soap-based ritual in the steam room and can even include a hair wash if you fancy, followed by a facial massage.
- Bayyah – this starts with the kessa glove body ritual followed by a series of stretches to improve your joints and muscles. This one can also include a 15-minute massage afterwards.
- Zahrawi – one of the newest treatments this involves a facial massage with products form El Jardín de Hammam.
Make sure to look on the official website for all the different packages as prices vary depending on when you visit and there are frequent offers so you can often get a good deal.
You can also book through Get Your Guide or Viator.
Practical tips for visiting Hammam Al Ándalus in Córdoba
If you’ve never visited a hammam before you’re bound to have some questions so here are some tips to help you.
Booking
Bookings can be made online on the official website or through Get Your Guide. I would recommend booking in advance to be sure of getting your chosen date and time as the hammam is very popular and sessions often sell out, particularly evenings and weekends.
The hammam is open daily from 10am until late. I chose a late evening session on my last day in Córdoba as a treat for all the walking I’d done when exploring the city.
Arrive early
Each session is ninety minutes long but you’ll be advised when you book to arrive half an hour early so that you can be checked in, given an orientation of the hammam, and have a shower. If you arrive late you can’t make up your ninety minutes so get there early to maximise your time in the baths.
What to bring
You really only need to bring your swimwear as everything else including towels and toiletries is provided for you. There are also bags to put your wet swimwear in afterwards. If you do forget your swimsuit you can buy one at reception.
Stay hydrated
Make full use of the refreshment areas between baths, especially if you’re using the hot water bath or the steam room and start to feel light headed.
Final thoughts – is the Hammam Al Ándalus in Córdoba worth visiting?
If you’re looking for the ultimate in relaxation during your time in Córdoba then you should definitely make time for a visit to Hammam Al Ándalus. In today’s busy world downtime is a rarity so this was like a mini detox – no watch, no phone, just 100% rest and relaxation. Go on, you know you want to!
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this post and it has encouraged you to visit Hammam Al Ándalus when you visit Córdoba.
Happy travels!
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I did a traditional hammam in Marrakech and it was…intense! I got a full body scrub and then a good wash and left feeling like a whole new woman. This hammam you went to sounds better though, ours was small and didn’t have things like the different baths-I’d definitely be up for trying this one so there’s the relaxing time (and the showers!) too.
I’ve heard lots of stories about the traditional Moroccan hammams – not for the faint hearted by all accounts! I’ll have to try one to compare. This one was definitely an easy intro to hammams and very relaxing.
Just looking at the traditional style entrance to this hammam is enough to make me feel more relaxed, I can only imagine the feeling after a visit. My friend loves going to hammams in Turkey, and raves about them but I haven’t had the opportunity to go to one yet. A great supply of toiletries and mint tea… sign me up. I’d probably opt for an essential oil treatment or a facial, but all of this sounds relaxing
It was a lovely experience – I wish I lived closer so I could go more often!
This is something I would definitely want to experience and I have dropped a pin for the hammam al andalus in Cordoba. As you mention in your post it makes for a great time out during a day of sightseeing and escaping the crowds and heat. I’ve been to spas before but never in a historic one. I’d be in awe over the beautiful architecture and can imagine the time just zooming by.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
It was lovely Carolin although it did feel odd at first not having a clue what time it was. I think going in the evening is ideal as it relaxes you so much you can just go straight to bed and, hopefully, have a lovely sleep.