Vejer de la Frontera is consistently recognised as one of the most beautiful of all Andalucia’s white villages. I live in another of the official ‘pueblos más bonitos de España’ (most beautiful towns in Spain) so I like to think I know a thing or two about what makes a good one. Read on to see if Vejer meets my expectations.
Standing on a hilltop just six miles (ten kms) inland from the long sandy beaches of the Costa de la Luz in the province of Cadiz, Vejer is an ideal destination for a daytrip, but I would definitely encourage you to linger for longer.
This post may contain affiliate links which means if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended I may receive a commission. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help to keep this site going. Thank you for your support.
A brief history of Vejer de la Frontera
Vejer today is reminiscent of the towns of coastal Morocco, just across the Strait of Gibraltar (and clearly visible on a good day) – a jumble of whitewashed houses staggering downhill towards the Atlantic coast.
Human presence in Vejer dates back half a million years, with Palaeolithic tools found in the area, as well as nearby Neolithic settlements, Bronze age artifacts buried beneath the town’s walls, not to mention signs of the Romans too.
In 711 Vejer was taken by Muslim forces and for the next 500 years was ruled by the Arabs – the Moorish influence still visible as you wander through the town. By the late 13th century Vejer was captured by Christian forces and the Vejer of today was declared a Historic Artistic site in 1976.
Did you know that, like Ronda, Vejer de la Frontera is twinned with the Moroccan town of Chefchaouen?
With a population of just over 12,000 Vejer de la Frontera is small enough to see on a day trip but it’s worth spending at least one night to fully appreciate it and, given that it’s got quite the foodie reputation, the extra time means you can sample more local delicacies. That’s always a win in my book! In fact, one of my absolute favourite things to do when I’m travelling (not to mention when I’m not!) is to eat, and Vejer has a huge amount of bars and restaurants relative to its size so, whatever tickles your palate, you’re likely to find something to enjoy.
I’ve put this guide together after several visits to Vejer. My first was in 2021 just as we were coming out of lockdown in Spain so not everything was open and there were still a lot of restrictions in place, so it was good to go back and revisit the town and see what, if anything, had changed.
All prices are correct as of April 2025.
If you want to maximise your time in Vejer de la Frontera you might want to pop into the Tourist Information Office on Calle Los Remedios to pick up a map but, to be honest, a wander with no agenda in mind is a delight and the town is small enough that you’re likely to come across most of these places of interest anyway.
People watching in Plaza de España
The Plaza de España dates from the 16th century when Vejer outgrew its city walls and, in its early days, was a venue for watching bull fights. Nowadays, it’s a meeting place for locals and tourists alike and while not particularly big, especially compared to its namesake in Seville, Plaza de España is everything you could want in a typical Spanish square.
With a beautifully tiled fountain in the centre (Fuente de los Pescaitos – fountain of the little fish) and surrounded by swaying palms, orange trees, shops and restaurants, it’s the perfect spot for people watching. Grab a tinto de verano from one of the bars and settle back!
The fountain in the centre was only built in the 1950s and is decorated with tiles from Seville. The four water-spouting frogs are similar to those found in other parts of the region including the fountain in Santa de Plaza Maria in Tarifa.
Plaza de España, Vejer de la Frontera
Follow the old town walls
Like many of the Andalucian towns with the ‘de la Frontera’ suffix, Vejer was once a walled town and you can easily walk around what remains today.
As you wander you’ll come across four well preserved arches which were gateways to the town – Arco de la Villa, Arco de la Puerta Cerrada, Arco de la Segur, and Arco de Sancho IV.
As well as the four arches, there are also two towers built into the walls – Torre de la Corredera which faces the town of Medina-Sidonia and which you can see from Calle de la Corredera, and Torre del Mayorazgo which faces the coast and which you can enter through Casa del Mayorazgo (more on that one later).
Arco de la Villa
Translated as Arch of the Town, this one was the most important in Vejer’s history and today leads from Plaza de España into the old town.
Arco de la Villa, Calle José Castrillón, Vejer de la Frontera
Arco de la Puerta Cerrada
The Arch of the Closed Gate is part of the Jewish Quarter and is so named because it had to be closed for centuries as a means of defence as it gave access to the road which led to the sea.
Arco de la Puerta Cerrada, Calle Judería, Vejer de la Frontera
Arco de la Segur
Built at the end of the 15th century this arch (Arch of the Axe) is next to the Iglesia Divino Salvador and takes its name from the relief of an axe clearly visible on the wall. There’s a tiled plaque above the archway dedicated to Juan Relinque, a local hero.
Arco de la Segur, Calle Marqués de Tamarón, Vejer de la Frontera
Arco de Sancho IV
The Arch of Sancho IV is the oldest of Vejer’s gateways and you’ll recognise it thanks to the statue of Juan Relinque standing just in front of it.
Arco de Sancho IV, Calle Sancho IV el Bravo, Vejer de la Frontera
Wander the whitewashed streets
Whenever I visit any of Andalucia’s white villages I love nothing more than an aimless wander, and Vejer is perfect for this. You never know what you’ll find around the next corner – a hidden passageway, a small fountain, a flower filled patio, or a mirador with amazing views across the countryside.
While you’re walking around the city walls between the four arches keep an eye out for some of the lesser known sights such as Callejón Oscuro (Dark Alley).
There are also loads of interesting doors and door knockers so keep your eyes peeled for those.
Browse the shops for unique souvenirs
While you’re exploring the tiny streets and alleyways you’ll find lots of boutique shops and galleries selling everything from handcrafted basketware, jewellery and clothing to paintings and ornaments.
Thanks to its close proximity to Morocco the African influence is obvious and you’re almost guaranteed to find a souvenir or two that you won’t find anywhere else. Of course, if you want a mass produced fridge magnet to add to your collection you can probably find one of those too.
One of my favourite shops is Ecléctica Deco which has a lovely selection of homewares and ornaments. You’ll find it on Calle Canalejas.
Look out for the interesting shop signs and tiles too.
Visit the statue of La Cobijada
Underneath an olive tree near the Arco de la Puerta Cerrada, the statue of La Cobijada depicts a woman wearing the traditional costume of Vejer – an all-black cloak and skirt outfit with just one of her eyes visible from beneath her cloak.
With its origins in the 16th and 17th centuries, wearing the cobijada was banned in 1936 as it was believed that the outfit could not only hide the wearer’s identity but also conceal weapons and mask crimes.
However, the tradition was revived in 1976 and the cobijada is now worn during annual festivals in Vejer.
La Cobijada, Calle Juan Bueno, Vejer de la Frontera
You’ll spot images of La Cobijada all around Vejer including on the front of the Iglesia de la Merced next to Plaza de España.
Check out the Mercado de San Francisco
If you’re expecting a big bustling market like those in Cadiz or Malaga, you’ll be disappointed as it’s very small and, on the morning we visited, there were only two fruit and veg stalls open. It was a Monday so it may be a different story on other days. However, come lunchtime and it’s all change as the gastronomic market stalls open their doors and you can tuck into traditional Andalucian foods such as plates of pescaito frito (fried fish), or international dishes like sushi, washed down with a cerveza or two.
Mercado de San Francisco, Calle San Francisco, Vejer de la Frontera
Pucker up in Rincón del Beso
Just around the corner from the market is a photogenic spot with the tiled instructions to ‘Bésame en este rincón’ – ‘kiss me on this corner’. Even if you don’t have anyone to smooch with it’s worth a stop for a photo overlooking the town.
Bésame en este rincón, Calle Viñas, Vejer
While you’re here check out the sun dial on a nearby wall.
Enjoy the colourful flowers in Plaza de la Paz
The houses in and around Plaza de la Paz are all decorated with colourful ceramic pots – if you’re here in spring and summer when everything is in bloom then you should definitely have a wander around this part of the neighbourhood.
Plaza de la Paz, Vejer de la Frontera
Admire the views from Arco de las Monjas
If you’ve ever seen photos of Vejer you’ll probably already be familiar with Arco de la Monjas (Arch of the Nuns) as it’s one of the town’s most Instagrammable spots. Also known as Arcos de la Judería it’s a tiny side street at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter and has beautiful views over the town, perfectly framed by the arched buttresses that were put in place after an earthquake in the 18th century.
One side of the buttresses is attached to the Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción (also known as Antiguo Iglesia or Old Church) and which is now home to the Municipal Museum of Customs and Traditions.
Arco de la Monjas, Calle Judería, Vejer de la Frontera
Check out Iglesia Divino Salvador
The Church of the Divine Saviour is right next door to the Arco de la Segur.
Built on an old mosque it’s Vejer’s main parish church and dates from the 14th century although an extension was added in later years.
Right outside the church is another stretch of the old town walls, the Murallas de la Segur, where cultural events are held throughout the year.
Iglesia Divino Salvador, Plaza Padre Angel, Vejer de la Frontera
Enjoy the gardens in Casa del Mayorazgo
Heading through Arco Sancho IV you’ll find Casa del Mayorazgo (House of the Entailed Estate), an 18th century house set in the town walls.
Entering the thick wooden doors you’ll find yourself in a courtyard with walls covered in potted plants. This is a privately owned house but the owners have opened it to the public as, through a second courtyard, there’s access to Torre del Mayorazgo. Climbing the tower gives you great views over Vejer, both the old and new towns, and down towards the Atlantic coast.
Casa del Mayorazgo is free to enter but there is a donation box so you can leave some money to help the owners with the upkeep and maintenance of their gardens.
Casa del Mayorazgo, Callejón de la Villa, Vejer de la Frontera
Try a traditional Moroccan coffee at Califa Express
If you want something a little different to the usual café con leche found in Spain, try a traditional Moroccan coffee. I had the Arabic coffee with cardamom, while Mark tried the coffee with oregano and cinnamon.
It was definitely an acquired taste and I’m not convinced I’ll be trying it again. The location is perfect though and the drinks list does have plenty of other options to try.
Califa Express, Plaza de España, Vejer de la Frontera
Enjoy a sunset dinner with a view at Califa Tapas
Calle de la Corredera is the place to be if you’re looking for somewhere to dine. The street is lined on one side with bars and restaurants all with uninterrupted views across the countryside.
We were lucky to get a table at Califa Tapas for dinner (it had been full at lunchtime) and enjoyed a delicious Catalan fish stew in the outdoor seating area as the sun went down. Definitely a great way to end the day in Vejer.
Califa Tapas serves a mix of Spanish and Moroccan dishes. If you can’t get a table in El Jardin del Califa in Plaza de España then try here instead.
Califa Tapas, Calle de la Corredera, Vejer
Don’t miss the miradors
In Vejer there’s a photo opportunity at just about every turn but, when you’ve filled your camera roll with pictures of the whitewashed streets and houses and are looking for something else, you need to check out the miradors dotted around the town.
These are loads of miradors to choose from but these are my favourites that are all easily accessible on foot.
Mirador de la Cobijada
This one is right next to the statue of La Cobijada and looks across the newer part of town.
Mirador de la Cobijada, Calle Juan Bueno, Vejer de la Frontera
Mirador Paseo de las Cobijadas
From here you can see right down to the coast and the Parque Natural La Breña y Marismas del Barbate (the salt marshes of the Barbate estuary).
Mirador Paseo de las Cobijadas, Calle Paseo de las Cobijadas, Vejer de la Frontera
Mirador Poema de José María Permán
The views all along Calle de la Corredera are exceptional but I like the tiles displaying one of José María’s poems about Vejer that roughly translates as:
Vejer! If you had been a woman, I would have fallen in love with you
Veiled lady in the bright light
The mill playing its divine game of being the wind which is its being
The air asks for a destination and the wind cries Vejer!
Mirador Poema de José María Permán, Calle de la Corredera, Vejer de la Frontera
Mirador del Santo Carlos Clavijo
This mirador has a statue of Jesus overlooking the town. If you want a view of Vejer itself at its best, like the one at the top of this post, this is the one to come to. It’s an easy walk through the newer part of town although, as with many places here, it’s uphill!
Mirador del Santo Carlos Clavijo, Calle Cañada de San Lázaro, Vejer de la Frontera
While you’re heading to the mirador see if you can spot Ratón Pérez!
Visit the windmills
Vejer was well-known for its windmills throughout the 19th century and, although they’re no longer used for milling flour, several have been preserved, including one that is open to the public.
There are three windmills on the edge of town and a further four that you can see if you follow the popular hiking route, the Rutas Molinos de Viento.
Molinos de Viento, Parque Hazas de Suerte, Camino de la Oliva, Vejer de la Frontera
More things to do in Vejer de la Frontera
Even though I’ve been to Vejer de la Frontera a few times there are still things I haven’t done and as I only write about, and recommend, things that I’ve done personally I’m including these extra suggestions in a separate section. Any excuse for another visit!
Visit the Castillo de Vejer
It might seem strange that I’m including the castle on this list as it dominates the skyline when approaching Vejer and would usually be one of my first ports of call.
However, as of April 2025 the castle is undergoing some renovations so is only open on Saturdays from 11am to 2pm and again from 5pm to 7pm, and on Sundays from 11am to 2pm. On my first visit it was closed thanks to Covid and now this so although I’ve walked past it I haven’t been in it – yet!
Castillo de Vejer, Calle Castillo, Vejer de la Frontera
Relax in the Hammam
Thanks to its Moorish roots there’s a hammam in the old town which blends a typical Moroccan hammam with traditional Roman baths. During a 90 minute session you can move between the caldarium (hot bath), tepidarium (warm bath), frigidarium (cold bath) and a steam room, and chill out with a mint tea. For extra pampering there are a variety of massages to choose from too.
Hammam Vejer, Calle Eduardo Shelly, Vejer de la Frontera
Catch a flamenco show
Flamenco is quintessentially Andalucian and there are several places in Vejer to enjoy a live flamenco show including La Peña in the old Iglesia del Rosario, Taberna La Bien Pagá and Taberna Flamenco Caragato.
There’s also an annual Flamenco Festival every summer where performances take place on the Murallas de la Segur outside the Iglesia de Divino Salvador.
Wander round the Museo de Vejer
Located in the former 18th century Palace of the Marquis of Tamarón, the museum houses archaeological collections that explain the history of the town through the years.
Museo de Vejer, Calle Marqués de Tamarón, Vejer de la Frontera
Things to do near Vejer de la Frontera
Once you’ve exhausted all that the town has to offer there are a few places near Vejer that are worth a visit, although you’ll need a car to get to most of them.
Enjoy the art at Fundación NMAC
This is an open air art gallery which is a great way to spend a few hours on your way to or from Vejer. From the car park there’s a path through the forest with various art installations to enjoy along the way. In addition, there are other displays, either temporary or on loan, in the grounds. It takes around ninety minutes to see everything. Entry is €10 per person.
Fundación NMAC, Km. 42.5, Carretera A-48 (N-340)
A full review of Fundación NMAC is coming soon!
Hit the beaches
If long stretches of golden sand is your thing then you’re in luck as there are some amazing beaches just a short distance from Vejer. The closest is Playa del Palmar while to the south of that is Playa de Zahora and to the north is Conil de la Frontera, another lovely town worth a visit if you have time.
Go birdwatching
If bird watching is more your bag make sure to check out the Northern Bald Ibises at Barca de la Vejer.
From a small hide at the side of the road you can view their nests on the rock face opposite. Although you’re close enough to get a good view, if you have a pair of binoculars then that’s even better.
Ibis Ermita, La Barca, Vejer de la Frontera
Day trips to Vejer de la Frontera
If you only have time for a day trip to Vejer de la Frontera and don’t intend to hire a car you can book a trip through Get Your Guide which also includes a visit to Conil de la Frontera. The tour departs from Jerez, El Puerto, Cadiz and Chiclana. The only downside is that you’ll have very limited time in the town.
Where to stay in Vejer de la Frontera
For a small town, Vejer de la Frontera has a lot of choice when it comes to accommodation.
Casa Bonhomía
On our first trip we chose to stay at Casa Bonhomía a beautifully restored village house right next to Iglesia de la Merced and just a short walk from Plaza de España. With only six rooms and a rooftop with great views, it has a real home from home atmosphere and the hosts couldn’t have been more welcoming.
Casa Bonhomía, Calle de la Corredera, Vejer de la Frontera
Hotel Convento San Francisco
On our second trip we stayed at Hotel Convento San Francisco, a converted convent in La Plazuela. This hotel was Vejer’s first inn and was perfectly located for visiting both the old and new parts of the town.
Hotel Convento San Francisco, Calle Plazuela, Vejer de la Frontera
There’s something in Vejer for every budget and both of my stays were very reasonably priced. However, if you want to splash out on a luxury stay you can check into Hotel La Casa del Califa or Hotel Plaza 18.
Where to eat in Vejer de la Frontera
It may only be small but, when it comes to all things food related, Vejer really packs a punch.
For breakfast try Café Bar Peneque in Plaza de España where you can enjoy a typical Andalucian breakfast of pan con tomate with a café con leche while sitting under the orange trees.
Staying in Plaza de España I can highly recommend lunch in Café Bar Trafalgar. We had the most delicious tapas there including the local tuna.
Just across the road you can enjoy a Moroccan feast at El Jardin del Califa, a lovely restaurant which specialises in Moroccan and Andalucian dishes and is set in a beautiful palm-filled courtyard reached by a stone staircase,. You’ll most likely need to make a reservation as it’s very popular – and with good reason.
I can recommend the Mezze del Califa as a starter – falafel, hummus, baba ganoush, tabbouleh, feta cheese and salad. Delicious!
Along Calle de la Corredera you’ll find plenty of restaurants to choose from and, even just wandering through the streets of the old town, there are loads of small bars and restaurants to entice you in. One thing is for certain – you won’t go hungry in Vejer!
If you’re planning a trip to Vejer de la Frontera here’s all the essential information you’ll need.
Getting to Vejer de la Frontera
By air
The closest airport to Vejer is in Jerez de la Frontera which has daily flights to and from several destinations within Europe. Alternatively, Gibraltar airport has daily flights from the UK.
You can check out flight prices on Trip.com.
By car
If you’re driving to Vejer from the south there are two routes – inland via Los Barrios on the A-381 turning towards the coast at either Benalup-Casas Viejas or Medina-Sidonia, or on the N-340 via Tarifa.
If you’re coming from the north you can choose the inland route on the A-381, turning at Medina-Sidona, or take the A-48/E-5 via Chiclana de la Frontera.
If you’re thinking of hiring a car for your holiday I always use Discover Cars and find them reasonably priced and easy to deal with.
Once you arrive in Vejer de la Frontera don’t even try to drive into the old town. Instead, there are lots of parking areas around the town depending on which way you drive into Vejer. There’s a parking garage, Parking La Corredera, at the entrance to the old town but, if you want to park for free we use the spaces along Calle Paseo de las Cobijadas or the parking lot near the bus station and Tourist Information Centre.
By train
There’s no railway station in Vejer de la Frontera. The closest are in Algeciras to the south and Cadiz to the north of Vejer.
By bus
There are buses from various cities in Andalucia although these stop at La Barca de Vejer from where it’s about a 20 minute walk to the town centre up a pretty steep hill. You can check prices and timetables, as well as buy tickets, on Omio.com.
Getting around Vejer de la Frontera
Its size means that it’s easy to get around Vejer de la Frontera on foot as most of the main sights are within easy walking distance of each other. Just be sure to wear some comfy shoes as you’ll be on your feet a lot – mostly on cobbled streets and frequently uphill!
Weather in Vejer de la Frontera
Vejer de la Frontera has a generally mild climate with hot and humid summers with average temperatures of 27°c. Winter can be wet and windy with average temperatures of 15°c. As with many places in Andalucia, spring and autumn are good times to visit.
Given its close proximity to the Costa de la Luz it’s worth noting that it can get really windy in Vejer – there’s a reason why the town has those windmills!
I hope this post has given you plenty of ideas of things to do in Vejer de la Frontera. Let me know if you have any questions, or if there’s anything I’ve missed that I need to add for my next visit.
Happy travels!
Why not pin this for later and follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for more inspiration, photos and updates?
If you would like to support my work by buying me a coffee I’d be really grateful – the more coffee, the more I can travel, the more content I can write! Thanks for your support, it’s very much appreciated.