Exterior of Camino da Vieira in Cruces

Accommodation on the Camino Portugues (Central Route)

Accommodation on the Camino Portugues is plentiful and varied so, whether you want a cheap and cheerful dorm room, an anonymous hotel, or a small family-run guest house, you’ll have no problems finding somewhere for a decent night’s sleep whatever your budget.

When you start planning to walk the Camino, whichever route you decide to take, you’ll read and hear about the albergue experience when it comes to where to spend the night.

Municipal albergues, which are specifically for pilgrims, can cost as little as €5 a night. They can’t be booked so, if you want to be sure of a bed for the night in one of the municipal albergues, you’ll need to be one of the early birds who starts walking at first light to be at the front of the queue when they open.

Private albergues are more expensive but still very reasonably priced and can be booked in advance.

A lot of pilgrims are very vocal about the fact that, for the true Camino experience, you should stay in albergues (preferably municipal ones), but I’ll be honest, this is my ideal of hell. Sleeping in a room with up to 50 strangers is definitely not on my bucket list!

You can read more Camino lingo you need to know before you go here.

Even staying in private albergues, where the number of beds per room is much lower, isn’t something that appeals. I inter-railed around Europe and backpacked through Australia and New Zealand in my younger days and, even then, I had an aversion to communal sleeping so it’s not a new thing that’s come with age.

It meant that, when I started my Camino planning, I knew that I wanted to stay in private rooms as far as possible. Obviously this was going to work out much more expensive but, if it meant I got a decent night’s sleep in a room of my own, then it’s a price I was willing to pay.

Interior decor at Carballo de Prado 1900 in Armenteira
Some accommodation on the Camino Portugues was like a home from home

Over the course of my walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostela I slept in a total of fifteen different beds and, while I did end up staying in a dorm room or two along the way, for the most part I had private rooms.

I also booked most of my accommodation on the Camino Portugues before I left home (another contentious issue among some Camino veterans) and the rest a day or two in advance.

I expected to be in a minority in terms of both private rooms and booking ahead but I actually found that many people I spoke to along the way were of a similar mindset.

For a lot of fellow pilgrims, private rooms seemed like a safer option after the previous two years of Covid restrictions, and booking ahead made sense given that 2022 is a Holy Year with a lot more pilgrims expected on the road.

One of the perks for me of booking my accommodation in advance was that I knew I had a room for the night guaranteed so I didn’t have to be on the road at sunrise, or earlier, rushing to the next stage to be one of the first in the queue for the albergue.

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I used a combination of Booking.com and the Camino Ninja app to find my accommodation. The great thing about Camino Ninja is the map for each town shows you where each albergue, hostel and hotel is situated so you can aim for something as close to the Camino route as possible.

Apart from my first day where I took the Senda Litoral out of Porto, I walked the Central Route of the Camino Portugues until I left Pontevedra where I followed the Variante Espiritual (Spiritual Variant).

You can read an overview of my Camino journey here.

Here’s everywhere I laid my head on the Central Route of the Camino Portugues from Porto to Santiago.

Porto – Zero Box Lodge

Located in a building which used to be a bank, Zero Box Lodge has been converted into a quirky hotel where each room is a wooden box and the key to your capsule comes with a free bottle of Superbock beer.

Bottle of Superbock Beer at Zero Box Lodge in Porto
Beer at check-in? Yes please!
Corridor of Box Bedrooms at Zero Box Lodge in Porto
From this…
Double Bedroom at Zero Box Lodge in Porto
…to this

Zero Box Lodge is around a ten- to fifteen-minute walk from the Cathedral so I didn’t have far to go to start my Camino journey.

The price per night was €60 which included a really tasty breakfast. The hotel also has a roof terrace with plunge pools, as well as a bar, restaurant, and movie room. Plus, if you’re creative and fancy a free night’s stay you can apply to spend the night in the glass box by the reception desk.

Free Room at Zero Box Lodge in Porto
Are you game enough to stay here for a free night?

Zero Box Lodge, Rua do Ateneu Comercial do Porto 13, Porto

You can find more Porto accommodation ideas here.

Vila Chã – Casa do Pinhal

Casa do Pinhal is just a few minutes off the Camino route around 17.5 miles after Porto along the Senda Litoral.

I’d been looking forward to arriving here and jumping straight into the pool in the beautiful gardens but, unfortunately, the weather had other ideas and I made it just before the heavens opened! After a long first day’s walk it was a joy to find a warm room, a thick duvet, and a powerful shower. Trust me, I slept well after my first day of walking!

Double bedroom at Casa do Pinhal in Vila Cha
Comfortable bedroom
Living Room at Casa do Pinhal in Vila Cha
Shared living room
Dining Room at Casa do Pinhal in Vila Cha
Breakfast room

The price was €45 for a double room with a private bathroom and a great breakfast.

Casa do Pinhal, Travessa do Pinhal 25, Vila Chã

You can find more Vila Chã accommodation ideas here.

São Pedro de Rates – Casa Anabela

My first accommodation that was right on the Camino. Casa Anabela isn’t on Booking.com but I found the number on the Camino Ninja app and made contact by WhatsApp.

I only booked this room the day before and was offered the choice of a room with a private bathroom, or a cheaper room with a shared bathroom. I opted for the room with the shared bathroom which was in another building just across the road from Casa Anabela.

The room itself was slightly dated but the bathroom was very clean and modern with the all important powerful shower.

View from Casa Anabela in Sao Pedro de Rates
A room with a view – ready to start another day of walking

I paid €30 which included a really lovely breakfast in the main house – including some delicious cake, homemade by Anabela.

You can contact Anabela on 00351 919 578 642.

Casa Anabela, Rua do Padrão da Vila 9, São Pedro de Rates

Barcelos – Top’Otel

Top’Otel is another accommodation choice right on the Camino and is, strictly speaking, in Barcelinhos rather than Barcelos. It’s right by the river – if you cross the bridge you’ve gone too far.

I had a twin room with a private bathroom (with a very funky sink unit repurposed from an old sewing machine stand). My room also had a small balcony with a view of the river.

Twin Bedroom at Top'Otel in Barcelos
Twin bedroom
Washbasin made from recycled Singer sewing machine table at Top'Otel in Barcelos
Upcycling at its best

It cost €45 for the night and included a good breakfast with hot and cold choices.

Top’Otel, Rua de Custódio José Gomes Vilas Boas 44, Barcelos

You can find more Barcelos accommodation ideas here.

Balugães – Casas da Quinta da Cancela

Quinta da Cancela was originally a winery but has now been converted into the most beautiful private accommodation. You can’t miss the big blue door right on the Camino welcoming you in.

Blue door entrance to Quinta da Cancela in Balugaes
Welcome to Quinta da Cancela

Like Casa do Pinhal in Vila Chã, I’d been looking forward to spending time in the beautiful grounds but, again, the weather wasn’t on my side.

Exterior photo of room at Quinta da Cancela in Balugaes
My room on the right from the outside…
Bedroom at Quinta da Cancela in Balugaes
…and the inside

There’s very little in Balugães, so Joana, who was a wonderful host, offered an optional evening meal which I took advantage of. Along with another guest, Pamela from the USA, I enjoyed a starter of pate and toast, followed by soup, shrimp risotto, and a filled crepe with ice cream for dessert. All for €22. Not surprisingly after that I had an excellent night’s sleep and woke up ready to tackle the walk to Ponte de Lima, but not before a fantastic breakfast of croissants, bread and cheese, yogurt, granola and fruit, as well as orange juice and coffee, which was included in the €60 per night price.

Quinta da Cancela, Rua Cândido Batista de Sousa 275, Balugães

Ponte de Lima – Terraco da Vila

Just a short walk from the riverfront, I had a single room at Terraco da Vila with a private bathroom and shared kitchen. Despite being close to bars and restaurants it was quiet so I had a good night’s sleep.

It cost €35 for the night (breakfast wasn’t included) and was very clean and comfortable. I’m not sure why I didn’t take a photo so, instead, here’s my breakfast from Panilima, just around the corner, before I set off to walk to Rubiães!

Coffee and pasteis de nata in Ponte de Lima
Starting the day right in Ponte de Lima

Terraco da Vila, Rua Formosa 40, Ponte de Lima

You can find more Ponte de Lima accommodation here.

Rubiães – Casa das Lages

This was another that I booked only the day before. The Camino passes the front door of Casa das Lages and, on a sunny day, I imagine it would be lovely to sit and relax in the garden and watch fellow pilgrims pass by. On the day I stayed, however, it was very wet so I took the opportunity to catch up on laundry as there’s a washing machine and tumble dryer for use (€5 per load).

I paid €30 for a twin room with a shared bathroom and kitchen. However, I was the only person staying there that night.

Casa das Lages in Rubiaes
Casa das Lages in Rubiães

The accommodation is a short walk from Rubiães but a mini bus from Bom Retiro restaurant does a pick-up and drop-off service which was great, and their pilgrim menu was fantastic.

Casa das Lages, Caminho de Santiago 550, Rubiães

Tui – Hotel A Torre do Xudeu

Right on the Camino again, Hotel a Torre do Xudeu is a historic building full of antiques. There’s a lovely garden (again, I didn’t quite have good enough weather to enjoy it) and a shared living room.  

I paid €50 for a double room with a private bathroom – which even had a bathtub! I also had a good view across the rooftops to the church of San Telmo.

Double Bedroom at Hotel A Torre do Xudeu in Tui
Double bedroom…
View from bedroom at Hotel A Torre do Xudeu in Tui
…with a view of the church of San Telmo

Breakfast was included in the price and was excellent – the usual selection of juice, coffee, bread, ham and cheese, as well as an amazing choice of pastries and cakes which, if you’ve got a sweet tooth like me, you won’t be able to resist.

Hotel a Torre do Xudeu, Rua Tide 3, Tui

You can find more Tui accommodation ideas here.

O Porriño – Hostal Louro

Another on the Camino (it was getting to be a habit by now) and, conveniently, just around the corner from a Lidl supermarket if you need to stock up on snacks for the road.

I booked Hostal Louro only a day in advance, directly through their own website, and got a private room, which was very clean and comfortable, with a private bathroom for €28.

Double Bedroom at Hostal Louro in O Porrino
My double room in Hostal Louro

Hostal Louro also has a bar, and they serve breakfast (not included in the room rate).  

Hostal Louro, Avenida Buenos Aires 6, O Porriño

You can find more O Porriño accommodation ideas here.

Redondela – A Boa Estrela

A Boa Estrela is just a short walk from the municipal albergue in Redondela and I had a single room with a shared bathroom here for €30 (breakfast not included).

It’s a very clean and modern ‘pension’ and has a small kitchen on the ground floor where you can help yourself to coffee and biscuits.

Single bedroom at A Boa Estrela in Redondela
My single room at A Boa Estrela

It’s within walking distance of bars and restaurants and, despite staying on the first day of a big festival, I didn’t hear any noise during the night.

A Boa Estrela, Rúa Isidoro Queimaliños 44

You can find more Redondela accommodation ideas here.

Pontevedra – Dpaso Urban Hostel

The time had come – I was booked into my first dorm of the Camino!

I chose Dpaso Urban Hostel as it looked really fresh and modern and I liked that the bunks had built-in individual lockers as well as privacy curtains. All the beds are named after towns along the Camino – I was in Barcelos, a bottom bunk near the window.

A stay here cost €18 for the night and, although I didn’t take any photos in the dorm, you can see pictures of the hostel here.

Dpaso Urban Hostel, Rúa do Gorgullón 16, Pontevedra

You can find more Pontevedra accommodation ideas here.

Armenteira – Carballo de Prado 1900

I had hoped to stay in the monastery in Armenteira but, when I’d made enquiries, they were fully booked for the date I wanted.

Instead, I booked to stay at Carballo de Prado 1900 and was more than happy with my stay here.

It’s a few miles outside of Armenteira but the owners pick you up from the monastery and then drop you back the next morning.

Carballo de Prado 1900 has lovely gardens with beautiful country views (not to mention the best sello in my credencial) and offer delicious home cooked meals. I opted for a tortilla with salad – both were huge, so tasty and excellent value.

Quirky transport from Armenteira Monastery to Carballo de Prado 1900
Quirky transport
Double bedroom at Carballo de Prado 1900 in Armenteira
Comfortable bed
Breakfast at Carballo de Prado 1900 in Armenteira
Delicious breakfast

The cost of my stay was €60 which included a big breakfast – on real china plates no less. I have to say it was probably my favourite breakfast of the whole Camino.

Carballo de Prado 1900, Armenteira Valboa 34, Armenteira

If you do want to stay in the pilgrim’s lodgings at the monastery it’s no longer possible to make bookings and is a case of first come first served. You can find out more information including prices on their website.

Vilanova de Arousa – Hotel Bradomin

I had a double room with a private bathroom at Hotel Bradomin for €30 (breakfast not included).

It was basic but, after a long day’s walking, it was more than sufficient, and not too far off the Camino route. It had a good shower which I was happy about, and was only a short walk to the marina for the boat to Pontecesures. The hotel has a bar and restaurant on site but, again, was within easy walking distance of other places to get food and drink.

Double Bedroom at Hotel Bradomin in Vilanova de Arousa
My double room at Hotel Bradomin

Hotel Bradomin, Avenida Juan Carlos I 29, Vilanova de Arousa

Cruces – Camiño da Vieira

After an early boat journey I arrived in Padron mid-morning so decided to continue walking so that my final day to Santiago would be shorter.

Camiño da Vieira is a real gem on the way to Santiago. It has two private rooms, although both were booked, so I stayed in a dorm room again.

It has plenty of space to relax, indoors and outdoors, and it even has a pool. There are laundry facilities and a fully stocked kitchen. As there are no bars or restaurants close by, Roberto, the owner, has filled the fridge and cupboards with a variety of food including pizzas, salads, pasta and pasta sauces, tuna, etc, to buy. There’s an honesty box in the kitchen to pay.

Seating area at Camino da Vieira in Cruces
Upstairs seating area
Living Room in Camino da Vieira in Cruces
Downstairs shared living room
Outside seating area at Camino da Vieira in Cruces
Space to chill outside

A stay costs €18 which includes breakfast – the kitchen is stocked with bread, pastries, fruit, and coffee to make your own before you leave for the day.

It’s a short walk off the Camino and you have to cross a busy road to get to it, but it’s well sign-posted so you can’t get lost.

Camiño da Vieira, Aldea Angueira de Suso, Cruces

Santiago de Compostela – Hospederia San Martin Pinario

I wanted to stay somewhere special when I arrived in Santiago de Compostela and, as my budget didn’t stretch as far as a few nights in the Parador, I opted instead to stay in a pilgrim room at the Hospederia San Martin Pinario.

It’s a converted monastery, just a stone’s throw from Plaza Obradoiro and the Cathedral and, while you can book one of the modernised rooms, you can also choose to stay in one of the original monk’s cells which hasn’t been updated.

Yes, it’s basic but for €25 you get a private room with your own bathroom and a really good breakfast included too.

Pilgrim's Room at Hospederia San Martin Pinario in Santiago de Compostela
Basic pilgrim’s accommodation…
View from pilgrim's bedroom in Hospederia San Martin Pinario in Santiago de Compostela
…but what a view!

The pilgrim rooms can only be booked directly with the Hospederia. You can e-mail them on reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu

Hospederia San Martin Pinario, Plaza de la Inmaculada 3, Santiago de Compostela

You can find more Santiago de Compostela accommodation ideas here.

I hope you’ve found this helpful if you’re thinking about walking the Camino Portugues in the future.

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A detailed review of all the accommodation I stayed at while walking the Central Route of the Camino Portugues

4 thoughts on “Accommodation on the Camino Portugues (Central Route)”

  1. This has been a really helpful post Alison. Loads of great information to help with planning a future Camino trip. I will def use this as a reference point when we start to plan ours.

  2. Thank you so much for this. Very helpful information. Now I need you to do the Spain – to – Santiago pilgrimage!

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