In April 2022 I finally set off to walk the Camino Portugués Central Route from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, a trip which had been postponed from 2021 due to Covid.
This is the itinerary for my 14-day trip, but each day has a link to a longer post with lots more information about the route and what you can expect.
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What is the Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago, or Way of St James, is a network of pilgrimage routes across Europe which end at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St James are said to be buried.
The most popular of all the Camino routes is the Camino Francés (French Way) which begins at Saint Jean Pied de Port in France, and crosses the Pyrenees, before ending in Santiago around 500 miles later.
The Camino Portugués is now the second most popular route and, given that I live in Southern Spain, was the most obvious choice for me as it’s less than a 90-minute flight away.
Camino Portugués routes
The Camino Portugués officially runs from Lisbon to Santiago (a total of around 400 miles/640 kms). However, like me, many people start in Porto.
There are actually three official routes on the Camino Portugués – the Caminho Central, the Caminho da Costa, and the Senda Litoral.
Caminho Central: The Camino Portugués Central Route runs inland all the way from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.
Caminho da Costa: The Camino Portugués Coastal route keeps predominantly to the coastline but does have some inland sections. At Redondela it joins the Central Route.
Senda Litoral: Similar to the Coastal Route, this path follows the river out of Porto and runs totally along the coastline before, again, merging with the Central Route at Redondela.
In addition, there’s a detour after Pontevedra which takes you towards the coast.
Variante Espiritual: The Variante Espiritual, or Spiritual Variant, allows you to follow the journey made by boat by the remains of St James and picks up again with the Central Route at Padrón.
Camino lingo you need to know before you go
It often seems that the Camino has its own language which can be daunting to first timers so, even before you take the first step on your Camino journey, you should get acquainted with the right terminology.
Albergue: These are hostels specifically for pilgrims. There are two types – Municipal and Private. Municipal albergues are the cheapest but are only for use by pilgrims so you’ll need to show your credencial to stay in one. They can’t be booked in advance which is one reason so many pilgrims set off early each day. Private albergues are slightly more expensive but are open to anyone and can be booked in advance.
Bom Caminho/Buen Camino: This is the pilgrim’s greeting, and you’ll find yourself saying it a lot over the course of your journey. It simply means Good Way or Good Journey in Portuguese and Spanish.
Credencial: Also known as the Pilgrim Passport, this is the official document that shows you’re a pilgrim and entitles you to receive your Compostela at the end.
Compostela: This is the certificate that confirms that you’ve officially completed your pilgrimage. To be eligible to receive the Compostela pilgrims have to walk at least 100kms (or travel 200kms by bicycle).
Sello: These are the stamps you collect in your credencial. You can get them in lots of places along the Camino including accommodation, bars and restaurants, tourist offices, and churches. For the last 100kms you must get two stamps per day to be able to receive your Compostela (this is especially important if you’re only walking the final 100kms).
Ultreia: Another pilgrim’s greeting it goes beyond a simple ‘Buen Camino’ offering encouragement to fellow pilgrims.
Although I opted to walk the Central Route of the Camino Portugués, I did make a few detours to get a sample of other trails. I left Porto on the Senda Litoral to experience some coastal terrain and also took the Spiritual Variant after leaving Pontevedra.
If you’re looking for things to do in Porto before the Camino there are lots of ideas in this post
Fourteen day Camino Portugués Coastal Route itinerary from Porto to Santiago de Compostela
This post is an overview of my 14-day walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. To read about each day in detail simply click on the link at the end of each entry.
Day 1: Porto to Vila Chã
Start: Porto Cathedral
End: Casa do Pinhal
Distance: 17.42 miles (28 kms)
The Camino Portugués from Porto officially starts at the way marker in front of the Cathedral so, at 9am, I set down my backpack for the obligatory ‘yes, I’m really about to do this’ photo. I’d visited the Cathedral the day before to buy my credencial and a scallop shell to attach to my pack.
Scallop shells are the official symbols of the Camino de Santiago and, as well as hanging off the backpacks of just about every pilgrim you’ll meet, they’re also on walls, signs, and way markers, to keep you on the right path.
This stage was perhaps a little long for my first day but at least it was mostly flat. While a lot of it was on boardwalks, I did get my first taste of what it was like to walk for extended periods on the infamous Portuguese cobblestones.
The day started off very overcast but the sun did come out early afternoon (albeit briefly) and, fortunately, the rain held off until five minutes after I’d arrived at Casa do Pinhal, my accommodation for the night. Talk about beginner’s luck!!
Read more about Day One from Porto to Vila Chã.
Day 2: Vila Chã to São Pedro de Rates
Start: Casa do Pinhal
End: Casa Anabela
Distance: 12.31 miles (20 kms)
Thankfully the rain, which had been torrential all night, had stopped by the time I was ready to set off again on the next leg of my journey.
Today the plan was to walk a few miles along the coast to Vila do Conde before moving inland to follow the Central Route to Santiago. I was slightly worried about turning inland at this point as I’d read plenty of horror stories about the markers not being particularly good and it being easy to lose the path. I had my trusty guidebook, The Camino Portugués by Howard Miller and Kat Davis, and thought I’d be ok but, what do you know, despite thinking I was following the instructions, I turned too early and had to open Google Maps to get me back on track. On the plus side, I got to see the aqueduct in Vila do Conde, soon picked up the right way and, thankfully, the rain held off and I even had sunshine for most of the day.
Read more about Day Two from Vila Chã to São Pedro de Rates.
Day 3: São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos
Start: Casa Anabela
End: Top’Otel
Distance: 11 miles (18 kms)
Today was a much shorter walk but most of the day I was walking on cobbles or stony ground so I was glad of my hiking poles (the first time I’d needed to use them since I left Porto). Leaving Pedra Furada I spotted a sign for a detour, the Variante da Franqueira, and, knowing that I only had a short walking day planned, decided to follow the arrows and take the detour. Although it was very hilly I was glad I’d decided to take this route as, from the church at the top of the hill, I was rewarded with stunning views of the Portuguese countryside and the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.
Day three was also the day that my first blister appeared so, as soon as I arrived at Top’Otel in Barcelinos, my accommodation for the night, I got out the Compeed and prayed to the blister gods that this would be as bad as it got!
Walking a short distance today meant that I had plenty of time to explore Barcelos which is a lovely town, and home of one of the symbols of Portugal, the rooster.
Read more about Day Three from São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos.
Day 4: Barcelos to Balugães
Start: Top’Otel
End: Casas da Quinta da Cancela
Distance: 10.27 miles (17 kms)
A lot of pilgrims make the choice to combine days four and five suggested by many of the guidebooks and head straight through to Ponte de Lima but that adds up to a whopping 22+ miles (35+ kms). I’ll admit that I had considered it when I was in the planning stages of my Camino but I’m glad I saw sense, especially as I woke up to rain. Although it was just a bit of light drizzle when I set off, within ten minutes I had to stop to put my rain poncho on.
Apart from the rain it was a really lovely walk through the countryside – lots of vineyards but still lots of cobbles, and quite a lot of mud too. It was on my walk today, as I reached Tamel, that I bumped into a group of six Californian friends who I would later meet on numerous occasions along the way.
Today’s walk was the shortest so far but I was glad to see the blue door of Casas da Quinta da Cancela, my home for the night, right on the Camino path so I could dry off.
Read more about Day Four from Barcelos to Balugães.
Day 5: Balugães to Ponte de Lima
Start: Casas da Quinta da Cancela
End: Terraço da Vila
Distance: 12.16 miles (20 kms)
After a huge meal at Casas da Quinta da Cancela last night, and an equally fantastic breakfast, today was a beautiful walk through vineyards and lush green countryside – my favourite day so far even with all the cobbles. I must confess though, that I’m counting down the days until I reach Spain and sealed roads! Only two to go!
My feet were killing me by the time I reached Ponte de Lima but I still managed a hobble around the town to do some sightseeing. One of the things I like about walking fairly short distances is that it gives me more opportunity to explore my destination each day. It was the Freedom Day public holiday in Portugal, as well as market day in Ponte de Lima, so the town was buzzing with activity.
I wandered across the bridge to check out the statue of the Roman general on horseback on one side of the river and later took a walk to see his troops on the opposite bank.
Read more about Day Five from Balugães to Ponte de Lima.
Day 6: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
Start: Terraço da Vila
End: Casa das Lages
Distance: 11.04 miles (18 kms)
Although yesterday had been a beautiful sunny day, today the rain was back with a vengeance.
It was a tough walk today, not helped by the rain, as there was a really steep uphill section through a forest. The climb up Alto da Portela Grande is probably much more enjoyable in good weather but today I just wanted to get up, back down the other side, and to my accommodation for the night. The weather was so bad that there was no chance of even enjoying the view from the top.
When I eventually reached Casa das Lages I found was the only person staying there. Happy days! With the weather still bad it was an afternoon for chilling out and doing some laundry (the joys of freshly washed and tumbled clothes at this stage can’t be underestimated) before heading out for a delicious pilgrim’s meal at Bom Retiro.
Read more about Day Six from Ponte de Lima to Rubiães.
Day 7: Rubiães to Tui
Start: Casa das Lages
End: Hotel a Torre do Xudeu
Distance: 13.23 miles (21 kms)
Today was the day that I was back on Spanish soil. The day started with some rain but it didn’t take long for the sun to come out creating perfect walking weather. At my first coffee stop of the morning I met the Californians so it was good to have a catch up with them.
A lot of the day was spent walking on quiet country paths until arriving in Valenca. The Camino cuts through the old fort, which was bustling with tourists, before crossing the bridge to Tui. Obviously I stopped halfway for another obligatory Camino photo of one foot in Portugal, one foot in Spain before heading to Hotel a Torre do Xudeu, my accommodation for the night and, again, right on the Camino route.
Don’t forget that Spain is an hour ahead of Portugal so, once you cross Ponte Internacional over the Minho river, you’re in a new time zone.
The afternoon was spent exploring Tui. If I was going to take any rest days this would have been the ideal place to stop for a day as I’d like to have had the opportunity to go back to Valenca and see some more of the fortress.
Read more about Day Seven from Rubiães to Tui.
Day 8: Tui to O Porriño
Start: Hotel a Torre do Xudeu
End: Hostal Louro
Distance: 10.30 miles (17 kms)
I didn’t set off until almost 10am this morning as I wanted to go to Convento das Clarisas to buy some of the nuns’ homemade biscuits, and they didn’t open until 9.30am.
Luckily it was only a short day and I wasn’t in a hurry to get to my destination. It’s a pretty flat part of the Camino too and, although it was another grey start to the day, it didn’t take long before there were blue skies again.
Shortly after reaching the iconic mural at Orbenlle, the road splits in two – the quick route to O Porriño through an industrial area, or the ‘complementario’ route. I took the scenic path which, although a little longer, didn’t really add too much distance to what was one of the shortest days of my Camino.
Read more about Day Eight from Tui to O Porriño.
Day 9: O Porriño to Redondela
Start: Hostal Louro
End: A Boa Estrela
Distance: 10.16 miles (16 kms)
Another short walk today although there was a ridiculously steep hill to tackle. Thankfully, for once it was downhill although I did get my hiking poles out just in case I toppled over under the weight of my backpack and rolled all the way to the bottom.
The Camino has been getting busier since leaving Tui (as it’s where a lot of pilgrims who are only walking the final 100 kms start) and, arriving in Redondela, it was busier still as this is where the Coastal route joins the Central route.
Redondela is a really pretty town so I had a good mooch around this afternoon, after a delicious lunch in 78 Gastrobar.
I’d been keen to visit ‘El Mejor Banco del Mundo’, a bench with an amazing view over the river and the iconic Ponte de Rande, but with over 100 miles (160 kms) covered in the last nine days I really couldn’t face another long walk to it – outstanding view or not!!
Read more about Day Nine from O Porriño to Redondela.
Day 10: Redondela to Pontevedra
Start: A Boa Estrela
End: DPaso Urban Hostel
Distance: 12.39 miles (20 kms)
A slightly longer day on foot than the last two days, with some steep hills, but the scenery made it all worthwhile. There was lots of forest walking today and even a few Galician pipers playing in the woods.
I stopped just after Arcade for breakfast with a view and then spent the afternoon exploring Pontevedra including a visit to the Church of the Pilgrim Virgin, Pontevedra’s iconic scallop shell shaped chapel.
Tonight I was booked to stay in a hostel dorm – the first time since my backpacking days in the mid-1990s! I wasn’t looking forward to it but hostels have come a long way in 25 years and the bunks in DPaso Urban Hostel were like little pods with privacy curtains and everything so it wasn’t as bad as I feared!
Read more about Day Ten from Redondela to Pontevedra.
Day 11: Pontevedra to Armenteira
Start: DPaso Urban Hostel
End: Carballo de Prado 1900
Distance: 14.79 miles (24 kms)
Today was May Day so, in keeping with Galician tradition, everyone had decorated their doors, gates and cars with bunches of broom. I also came across a Maio festival where different families make a ‘maio’ – a pyramid shape covered in flowers.
While a lot of pilgrims walk from Pontevedra straight through to Caldas de Reis I’d decided to follow the Spiritual Variant route. Although it potentially adds a day to the time taken to reach Santiago, I’d decided that it was definitely a detour worth taking.
Read all you need to know about walking the Spiritual Variant
The walk from Pontevedra to Combarro was lovely but then it was all uphill. More than once on the long trek upwards I asked myself why I was doing it! At times I did wonder if the end was ever going to be in sight and I can honestly say I was feeling anything but spiritual by the time I reached the monastery at Armenteira!
Unfortunately, the monastery was fully booked but I’d already arranged fantastic accommodation at Carballo de Prado 1900 – today’s walk was the toughest yet and I’d never been so glad to get my walking shoes off at the end of the day!
Read more about Day Eleven from Pontevedra to Armenteira.
Day 12: Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa
Start: Carballo de Prado 1900
End: Hotel Bradomin
Distance: 15.82 miles (25 kms)
After yesterday’s long uphill trek I was glad that today’s walk, although slightly longer, was mostly downhill to the sea. The first few miles from Armenteira, along the Ruta de Pedra e da Agua (Route of Stone and Water) were probably the most beautiful part of the whole Camino so far.
Then it was into wine country with vines growing everywhere along the route. There were even bodegas offering wine tasting – it’s probably for the best that they were closed for business as I might never have reached Vilanova otherwise!
Nearing Vilanova I met up with Susan from New York, who I’d shared dinner with last night, and we walked the last few miles together. I think we were both starting to feel a bit footsore so we weren’t exactly in a hurry to reach our destination and the last part of our journey alongside the beach were slow but steady.
Read more about Day Twelve from Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa.
Day 13: Vilanova de Arousa to Cruces
Start: Hotel Bradomin
End: Camiño da Vieira
Distance: 8.36 miles (13 kms)
Santiago was getting closer and today was a whopping 25.40 miles (41 kms)! However, 17.04 miles (27 kms) were by boat to Pontecesures so this was the shortest walking day of the whole Camino. The boat left at 7am – my earliest start of any day on the Camino so far, but to watch the sunrise along the way made up for me not really being an early bird.
From Pontecesures it was a short walk to Padrón, where I had a wander round the town, visited the Cathedral for a sello, and then called in to the Tourist Office to pick up my ‘Pedronia’. This is a certificate given out by the Town Council in Padrón to show that I’d followed the route to where St James’ body was brought before continuing to Santiago.
I then had a short walk to Cruces where I was staying the night to give me a shorter day’s walk into Santiago. The walk wasn’t particularly inspiring with parts of it on, or close to, busy roads and I was glad to get to Camiño da Vieira, my accommodation for the night.
Only about 11 miles (18 kms) to cover tomorrow then I can put my feet up!
Read more about Day Thirteen from Vilanova de Arousa to Cruces.
Day 14: Cruces to Santiago de Compostela
Start: Camiño da Vieira
End: Plaza del Obradoiro
Distance: 11.40 miles (18 kms)
This was it. After a morning of fairly easy walking I was finally standing in Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
I wasn’t sure how I was going to feel when I arrived (I’d heard of far too many people who said they just felt underwhelmed) so I was more than a bit surprised that I actually started crying.
After accosting a random man to take my photo I threw my backpack on the ground, and just sat in the sun taking in the atmosphere.
After 14 days and just over 170 miles (274 kms) of walking I’d made it – and with only one tiny blister! Time to pick up my Compostela (thankfully I’d registered online so it took only five minutes to collect) and then it was time to celebrate.
Read more about Day Fourteen from Cruces to Santiago de Compostela.
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this – I’ve got lots more posts in the pipeline (both Camino and non-Camino) so why not sign up below to receive them directly to your inbox.
Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
If you have a few days to spare and are looking for ideas of things to do in Santiago de Compostela after the Camino there are plenty of ideas in this post.
Follow my Camino Portugués adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Vila Chã
Day 2 – Vila Chã to São Pedro de Rates
Day 3 – São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos
Day 4 – Barcelos to Balugães
Day 5 – Balugães to Ponte de Lima
Day 6 – Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
Day 7 – Rubiães to Tui
Day 8 – Tui to O Porriño
Day 9 – O Porriño to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Armenteira
Day 12 – Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa
Day 13 – Vilanova de Arousa to Cruces
Day 14 – Cruces to Santiago de Compostela
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Really enjoyed your blogs. My wife and I are in Redondela now and your blog has convinced us to do the spiritual route. It sounds great.
Andrew & Karen
I’m so glad you’re enjoying them. You won’t regret doing the Spiritual Variant – it’s so beautiful. Enjoy the rest of your Camino journey.
What an amazing journey!
It was fantastic – it had its lows as well as its highs but I’d do it again in a flash. In fact, I’m already considering the Coastal Route next year. :o)
Everytime I read something about a pilgrimage, it makes me want to set off on a spiritual journey too. So glad that you are finally able to do the walk Alison. Is it right to say that there will be a book reflecting on this journey that we will be reading one day? 😉
You should definitely go for it Jan. I’ve got so many blog posts in the pipeline that I’m sure I would have enough to fill a book but I’ll leave that for better writers than me. ;o)
Really enjoyed reading about this. What a remarkable journey. It was also fascinating to learn about the terminology, the conventions and the practicalities of the pilgrimage. And it looked absolutely beautiful.
Thank you so much – I’m so glad you enjoyed it. It was really beautiful – I can’t wait to go and walk again.
Lovely post and I’m glad everything worked out well for you, including not being underwhelmed at the end! I had no idea you need to have a passport and the various requirements to get the certificate. Do you have to be catholic or can anyone get a certificate at the end?
Thanks Paul. I didn’t expect that reaction when I finished at all!! You’re eligible for the certificate if you’re walking for religious or spiritual reasons, or at least have an attitude of search. If you’re not walking for any of those reasons you can still get a certificate that confirms the distance you’ve walked.
I love this post so much!! I see so many people post of their Caminos but didn’t have a full picture of the physical routes. I would be lying if I didn’t say I teared up when you wrote about crying as you finished. Love this!! Can’t wait to read the rest!
Thank you so much Peggy! Crying was honestly not something I expected to do! ☺️
That’s quite the journey, Alison! I didn’t realize they had something like this in Portugal and always assumed it was only done in Span. Great insights into what goes into this type of experience.
Thanks Kasia. There are more routes to choose from in Spain but walking through Portugal is definitely a good taster of the Camino experience.
Thanks for the link from the FB group page! I’m enjoying reading your daily walk posts and it just fuels my commitment to walking the Camino in 2023. Still deciding on the Portuguese route I will take, considering the amount of time I might have when I go. Dang jobs get in the way of a life! Quick question, how did the blister fare after day 3?
Thanks Jenny, I’m so glad you’re enjoying the posts. Honestly, walking the Camino will be one of the best things you do. I’m hoping to do the Coastal Route next year – one Camino is never enough!!
My blister was absolutely no trouble. I think I caught it just in time. I changed the Compeed plaster every three or four days and it seemed to do the trick as it was fine. Hopefully I’ll be lucky again next time.
I truly enjoy your blog posts. The photographs are amazing.
I will also be walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela leaving on September 9th.
As I mentioned to you on Facebook, I fear I won’t be able to walk the distances proposed by the tour company that booked my hotels. 22.9 km the first day, some even longer on other days.
I might have to finish some days by taxi or public transportation just to keep up with my schedule.
I still have a month to increase my distances.
Your blog has inspired me to complete the Camino on my my own terms.
Any advice for a first time pilgrim?
Thank you.
Thank you so much for your lovely comment.
If you’re worried about the daily distances there’s no harm in taking a taxi. In fact, you’ll find taxi numbers stuck on lampposts and in bars along the way.
Just take your time – although you’re committed to reaching a certain point each day you don’t have to rush to get there. Take as many breaks as you need whether it’s at a cafe or just somewhere to sit and admire the view. I did this on more than one occasion. You’ll often find that other pilgrims will join you too as you rest your feet.
Good luck – I just know you’ll have a wonderful time.
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How did you get from the airport in Porto to the town and cathedral itself?
There’s a tram that goes from the airport into Porto city centre. It’s the purple line and runs about every 30 minutes to Trindade Station. It’s about a 15 minute walk then from the station to the cathedral.
Ola, Alison! I’m really enjoying your Camino blog. I’ll be walking a portion of the Portuguese Central this summer with seven friends. Some years ago we walked the last 100km of the French Way from Sarria to Santiago. Brilliant!
I spotted the toes of your boots in a couple of your photos. (I’m looking for new footwear so they caught my eye!) What boots did you wear and do you recommend them?
Muito obrigada!
~ Jean
Thanks for your lovely comments Jean. I hope you have an amazing time walking in Portugal.
I walked in Quechua walking shoes from Decathlon. They weren’t very expensive but I found them to be really comfortable. They’ve got a good sturdy sole which I think really helped with all the cobbles!
Awesome! Thank you, Alison! 🙂
I’m sending my walking friends the link to your blog so they can take a peek before we go!
Cheers!
Jean
That’s so kind of you. You’ve all got a wonderful experience ahead of you.
Buen Camino!
Hi Alison
Nice to “meet” you
My name is Yossi & i live in Israel
I am planning to my wife & friend , a 10 days walking tour from Porto to SDC
(Last year they made the French route) and while searching for tips & ideas i saw your page, andobtain accommodation info
WOWW………………… I an SPEECHLESS
I contact you not only to spread compliments 🙂 BUT to ask for a favour….
The route i offer them is IDENTICAL to days 4-10 (incl) you did..
Can you be so kind & obtain accommodation info .. i mean .. YOUR accommodation solutions for days 4 to 10…
Highly appreciate your assistance
Best personal regards
Yossi
Hi Yossi
Thanks for your kind words – they’re very much appreciated.
Have you read my post about the accommodation I used while walking. I’ve put a link to it here. https://alisononfoot.com/accommodation-on-the-camino-portugues-central-route/
You can click on the links within the post to book the accommodation yourself.
Best wishes and Buen Camino.
Hey Alison , Great work , We are planning a mid June hike and after reading your journey I am talking to my friends that this should be the best of 3 routes , We are a party of 8 who did the SJPdP to Finistere 2023 , and after reading your blog know this is the correct route we should take . have you thought about writing for the Trek , you would fit in perfectly .
Shooter
Thanks David, it’s always good to get positive feedback. June will be a lovely time to walk so I hope you have a wonderful time.
I’ll look into The Trek – thank you and Buen Camino!