Camino Portugués – Central or Coastal Route?

Congratulations! You’ve decided to walk the Camino Portugués. Let me just say you won’t regret it.

While the decision to walk the Camino might have been an easy one, the big question you need to ask yourself next is ‘which route should I take?’

From Porto you have two choices – the Central route or the Coastal route. You can probably guess from the names that the Central route goes inland from Porto to Santiago, while the Coastal route follows the Atlantic coastline. Both routes merge in Redondela for the final stretch into Santiago.

There’s also the Senda Litoral which is a variation of the Coastal route and shares its path for much of the way. It’s an oddity of the Camino Portugués that, despite the name, a lot of the Coastal route is actually inland and not as coastal as you would expect. However, the Senda Litoral runs totally along the coast so when the Coastal route heads inland the Senda Litoral stays by the ocean. It’s worth noting that the Senda Litoral is still a work in progress along some parts of the route.

For clarity I’m just going to refer to the Central and Coastal routes but I’ll mention the Senda Litoral in places where I feel it could be confusing.

The Central and Coastal routes are very different and, having walked both, I’m going to outline what you can expect from each route to help you make the right choice for your Camino.

This post may contain affiliate links which means if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended I may receive a commission. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help to keep this site going. Thank you for your support.

Camino Portugués Central Route – what to expect 

The Central route is the more traditional of the two routes and wends its way through some of rural Portugal’s most charming towns and villages, passing vineyards, eucalyptus forests and riverside trails. The Central route is a historical route and you’ll walk on ancient Roman roads past small chapels, stone crosses, and roadside shrines.

Distance

The Central route has a total distance of around 150 miles (243 kms) and, depending on how far you plan to walk each day, can generally be completed in 10 to 13 days.

 I walked the Central route in 2022 in 14 days, although I did take the Spiritual Variant which added an extra day.

The Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual) is an alternative route from Pontevedra to Padrón on the latter stages of the Camino Portugués. This detour takes you to the coastal town of Combarro and then inland to Armenteira before heading to the coast once more at Vilanova de Arousa. From here the final stage of the Spiritual Variant is a boat journey to Pontecesures, just south of Padrón.

Terrain

On the Central route you’ll walk on woodland paths through forests and farmland, on dirt tracks and gravel paths, and on cobblestones. So many cobblestones!! Once you cross into Spain your feet will be saved from the cobbles but, until then, they’re an unfortunate fact of life!

There’s also quite a lot of walking on roads and pavements if you take the Central route. They’re not necessarily busy roads but it’s something to be aware of.

The Central route also has quite a few ups and downs including the climb to the top of Alto da Portela Grande, the highest point on the Camino Portugués which you’ll climb on the stage between Ponte de Lima and Rubiães.  It’s not like climbing a mountain but it’s certainly a tough climb in comparison with the rest of the route.

Infrastructure

Pilgrim infrastructure is good on the Central route – not just in terms of more cafes and bars along the route to stop and rest, but also places to stay, and, importantly, more yellow arrows to follow. It’s almost impossible to get lost on the Central route as there’s just one trail to follow. I say it’s almost impossible but, of course, I did take a wrong turn or two when I walked this route but nothing that I didn’t notice almost immediately.

Towns along the Central route

The towns you’ll pass through, or stay in, on the Central route tend to be small and more historically significant compared to those on the Coastal route. My favourites included Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, and Tui.

Barcelos is home to the Portuguese emblem, the rooster, and walking round this pretty town you won’t be able to miss the giant rooster sculptures that are dotted around the place.

Ponte de Lima has a lovely historical town centre plus the ancient bridge across the Rio Lima that gives the town its name. One thing I loved about many of the churches in Portugal were their pretty tiled facades and the one across the bridge here was no exception.

Tui is the first Spanish town you reach after crossing the Rio Minho from Valenca in Portugal and a visit to its Cathedral is well worth it. There’s even discounted entry when you show your credencial.

Why choose the Camino Portugués Central Route

The Central route is the one for you if you’re looking for a more traditional Camino walking through rural landscapes passing through historic towns and villages.

Be aware, though, that there are a lot of cobblestones in comparison to the Coastal route which is tough on your feet. You do get used to them but they were definitely the low points for me on my days on the Central route!

The Central route also has more challenges in terms of hills compared to the comparatively flat Coastal route/Senda Litoral.

Camino Portugués Coastal Route – what to expect 

The Coastal route takes pilgrims along the stunning Atlantic coastline from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. You’ll be rewarded with outstanding sea views, long sandy beaches, and quaint fishing villages and seaside towns. Unless you’re taking the Senda Litoral the whole way to Redondela where the routes merge you’ll find yourself walking inland through similar terrain to the Central route on more than one occasion.

Distance

The official Coastal route has a total distance of around 160 miles (260 kms) and, again, can generally be covered in two weeks. I walked it in 2024 in 13 days although some of those days were longer than I usually like to walk.

If you spend more time on the Senda Litoral than on the official Coastal route you’ll actually walk even further – around 175 miles (280 kms).

Terrain

If you stick fully to the official Coastal route, as well as walking on boardwalks, your terrain will be pretty similar to the Central route – roads, footpaths, and the ever present cobblestones!! There are also some hills to contend with along the way.

If, however, you stay on the Senda Litoral you’ll be on generally flatter terrain with boardwalks, gravel paths, and even some beach walking.

Infrastructure

The infrastructure on the Coastal route isn’t as developed as on the Central route and you’ll find some stretches where you’ll struggle to find places to eat and drink (and take toilet breaks). Not to put too fine a point on it but I made more impromptu toilet breaks behind trees and bushes on the Coastal route whereas, on the Central route, I never had trouble finding a bar with a toilet.

If you’re walking through the peak summer months it’s worth noting that the beach towns on this route can get busy with holidaymakers so, if you’re not planning to stay in albergues, you might struggle to find somewhere to stay.

Towns along the Coastal route

In contrast to the towns on the Central route many of the places you pass through are much bigger and, although they do have historical centres, they do have more modern parts and, in places like Vigo, it can take some time to walk in and out of the city through more industrialised areas. My favourites included Póvoa de Varzim and Viana do Castelo.

Póvoa de Varzim is a fairly large seaside resort with beautiful golden beaches and a lovely historical centre.

Viana do Castelo is well known for the Santuario de Santa Luzia which sits on top of a hill overlooking the town and is easily reached by a funicular railway (or on foot if you haven’t done enough walking by the time you arrive!).

Why choose the Camino Portugués Coastal Route

The Coastal route is the one for you if you’re looking for a less traditional Camino and would prefer to walk along boardwalks than cobblestones.

The Coastal route is flatter so if hills aren’t your thing then this is the route for you particularly if you opt to spend more time on the Senda Litoral. It’s not totally hill free but the climbs are much less strenuous than the ones you’ll find on the Central route.

The fact that you have the official Coastal route and the Senda Litoral to choose from means that you can mix it up in terms of scenery too – if you need a break from all those beautiful ocean views then leave the Senda Litoral and follow the official Coastal route yellow arrows instead.

Things to consider when choosing which route to take

How much time do you have?

The Coastal route is longer than the Central route so you’ll possibly need an extra day to complete it depending on what your average daily distance is likely to be. However, I walked the Central route in 14 days (which included the extra day of the Spiritual Variant) and the Coastal route in 13 days so it is feasible to do either in two weeks.

When do you plan to go?

You can walk both routes throughout the year but not all facilities will be open year round, particularly on the Coastal route. I walked late September/early October and, even so soon after the end of the holiday season, found that many beach bars and restaurants were already closed.

Spring and autumn would be my preferred time for either route but you need to be aware that bad weather can strike at any time. Getting caught up in Storm Kirk in early October wasn’t on my Camino bingo card!

If you’re planning to walk in the summer months then the sea breeze on the Coastal route will offer a reprieve from the high temperatures, but the beach towns will be really busy with tourists.  

If you intend to walk during the winter months then you’ll be extremely exposed to high winds on the Coastal route which can make walking difficult, not to mention unpleasant.

What type of scenery do you prefer?

Are you a fan of country walks through forests and woodland, or do you prefer to be beside the seaside?

You get both of these to some extent if you walk the official Coastal route and it’s worth considering that, once the routes merge in Redondela, you’ll no longer be near the coast so, if you’re leaning more towards ocean vistas then you should opt for the Coastal route.

How much of a challenge are you looking for?

The hills (and cobblestones) of the Central route definitely offer a more physical challenge compared to the flatter paths of the Coastal route/Senda Litoral.

However, the Coastal route is longer so you need to weigh up whether you prefer a slightly shorter route with more inclines, or a longer route with fewer hills.

What social experience do you want from your Camino?

Do you want more solitude on your Camino or are you after a more social experience?

The official figures for 2023 from the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago (the most recent stats available at the time of writing) show that 141,482 pilgrims completed the Camino Portugués with 88,728 walking the Central route and 52,754 walking the Coastal route.

These figures would suggest that, if you’re after solitude, you might want to take the Coastal route while, if you want the company of other pilgrims you should consider the Central route.

Just to throw a spanner in the works, I actually found the opposite. When I walked the Central route in April 2022 I met very few other pilgrims and sometimes walked for hours before meeting anyone else, at least until Tui when it did get busier with those choosing to do just the last 100 kms. In contrast, when I walked the Coastal in September 2024 there were always lots of other pilgrims on the road right the way from Porto.

How to combine the Central and Coastal routes for the best of both worlds

If you still can’t make your mind up which route to take then, never fear, as it’s very easy to combine the two.

One of the most popular ways is to leave Porto on the Senda Litoral so that, for the first day, you follow the Douro River and later the Atlantic Ocean. At the end of the first day you can stay in one of the small fishing villages along the way, such as Praia de Angeiras or Labruge (or if you’re feeling fit, you can walk as far as Vila do Conde).

The next day you can then move to the Central route from Vila do Conde.

Alternatively, if you want more than just one or two days on the coast you can continue as far as Caminha and then, rather than crossing the river from Portugal to Spain at that point, you can walk along the river to Valenca and cross into Spain there, joining the Central route in Tui.

Walking the last 100 kms to Santiago

If you only have time to walk the last 100 kms in order to obtain the Compostela which route should you take?

On the Central route the last 100 kms traditionally starts in Tui, an actual total distance of around 73 miles (118 kms), while on the Coastal route the last 100 kms starts in Vigo, an overall distance of around 63 miles (102 kms).

It’s worth noting that, if you start in Vigo, you’ll have very little time on the coast as the next stop is Redondela where the two routes merge. In addition, Vigo is a big city with a busy port area rather than a small seaside town.

However, if you can only start in Vigo and do want to experience some coastal walking you can take the Spiritual Variant after Pontevedra.

Personally if I only had time to walk the last 100 kms I’d start in Tui, or even Valenca so I could at least say I’d walked some of the way in Portugal.

You can read more about walking the last 100 kms of the Camino Portugués in this post.

Central or Coastal – which was my favourite route?

That’s the million dollar question!! I originally walked the Central route as I wanted to experience a more traditional Camino. On top of that, I grew up, and have nearly always lived, near the sea so it wasn’t important for me to experience walking near the coast.

I loved the small towns and villages on the Central route and the tranquillity that it offered. Some days I barely saw another pilgrim and the ones I did were the same people I saw day after day.

When I walked the Coastal I was overawed by the scenery (even though it rained a lot and some days I could barely see what was happening in front of me). However, I found the Coastal route much busier and there was rarely a time when there weren’t other pilgrims around.

There are positives and negatives to both and I could easily sit on the fence and say that I enjoyed them both (which, to be fair, I did) but, overall, I’d say that the Central route was my favourite.

Whichever route you take you’ll have a wonderful time as each has its own charm. I hope that this post will help you make the decision that’s right for you but, if you still have any questions, please contact me and let me know and I’ll be only too happy to help.

If you still can’t make your mind up after reading this far, why not come and join the Camino Portugués Planning Facebook group and see what others have got to say?

Buen Camino!

Why not pin this for later and follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter for more inspiration, photos and updates?