Jebel Musa (or Jbel Moussa) makes up part of the Rif mountains in the north of Morocco and stands at 851 metres above sea level. It’s one of the Pillars of Hercules, with the other being the Rock of Gibraltar across the Strait of Gibraltar.
Pillars of Hercules
The Pillars of Hercules take their name from the Greek legend of Hercules, he of the Twelve Labours. One of these labours was to get the cattle of Geryon, a three headed monster, and deliver them to Eurystheus. However, on the way to complete the task his path was blocked by a mountain which he split in half using his mace. One half of this mountain became the Rock of Gibraltar and the other became Jebel Musa with the Strait of Gibraltar created in between, linking the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean.
I’ve lived in Southern Spain since 2017 and one constant in all that time has been the view of Jebel Musa across the Strait of Gibraltar, so when the opportunity arose to climb it I didn’t need to think twice.
Coming soon. How to spend a weekend in Tangier.
Where is Jebel Musa?
Although Tangier is the stopping off point to reach Jebel Musa, the start of the track to the top is in the small fishing village of Belyounech which is around 45 miles (70 kms) from Tangier, and close to the border of the Spanish enclave of Ceuta. From Tangier it takes around 90 minutes to reach Belyounech by road.
I was climbing Jebel Musa as part of a group trip with Random Fun Adventures who had all travelled over from Spain for a weekend Moroccan adventure.
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The climb to the top of Jebel Musa
The trail starts easily enough at Belyounech’s blue and white mosque and passes through the village before turning on to the lower slopes of the mountain where a rocky path starts its ascent.
It’s not a particularly steep climb but it is a long one so I stopped frequently to take photos – and get my breath back!
Keeping to this track we eventually reached a wide valley where we took a rest under olive trees while mountain goats grazed nearby.
Back on the path and it was upwards once more although it was always worth stopping to look back at the way we’d come.
The path was starting to get steeper now as we got closer to the top, as well as being much rockier underfoot.
Eventually we came to a pass with rocky outcrops to one side and, to the other, a steep slope leading to the summit.
Stopping here for a breather our guide advised us that this was the last resting place before the summit and gave us the option of ending the hike here or continuing to the top. Naturally, we all wanted to keep going so, after a short break, we were back on our feet and ready to tackle the final part of the climb.
The ascent to the summit
I won’t lie. The final stretch was challenging – the first part of the climb had simply been a warmup for this moment.
The terrain was particularly rugged in parts with some steep ascents, and we had to scramble up large rocks and boulders. Coupled with the fact that, for March, the weather was much warmer than anticipated it was tough going, but taking it easy was the name of the game – for me at least. Some fitter members of the group were up and away like sure footed mountain goats!
Eventually the path levelled out and it was a somewhat easier walk along a rocky ridge to the summit itself.
Used to following yellow arrows when walking the Camino de Santiago, here there were red arrows to keep everyone on the right path.
The summit
Reaching the peak it was time for the obligatory “Yes!! I made it” photo and then a well deserved rest to take in the breathtaking views.
The panorama includes the Strait of Gibraltar with Gibraltar itself nestled in the middle, with the Atlantic Ocean and the beaches of the Costa de la Luz to the left, and the Mediterranean Sea with the Costa del Sol to the right.
On the Moroccan side of the Strait of Gibraltar you can see the coastline stretching to the Ceuta on the right.
Descending Jebel Musa
If it was hard work going up, it wasn’t much easier going down – at least at the beginning. Again, slow and steady was definitely the way to do it and I was glad I’d brought my hiking poles with me.
Those steep rocks that we’d scrambled up were no less challenging on the descent. However, once we’d reached the plateau it was a much easier walk downhill back to Belyounech where a small shop did a roaring trade in cold drinks for a bunch of hot and weary hikers.
I can now claim bragging rights that I’ve climbed both Pillars of Hercules. While it’s easy to reach the top of the Rock of Gibraltar by cable car it’s much more rewarding to get there via the Mediterranean Steps.
Frequently Asked Questions about climbing Jebel Musa
How much does it cost to climb Jebel Musa?
I booked a weekend away with Random Fun Adventures which cost €350 (as at March 2023). This included return ferry travel from Tarifa, accommodation in a 4-star hotel for two nights (including breakfast), all transfers and transport while in Morocco, guides for both the climb and the sightseeing excursions in Tangier the following day, plus a Random Fun Adventures T-shirt.
You can check out their website for dates of future trips to climb Jebel Musa.
Of course, you can also climb it on your own which would be free but, I do think that it’s best to go with a guide. Having a local expert on hand means you’ll stay on track and reach the summit safely.
How far is it?
The walk is roughly 7.5 miles (12 kms) in total.
How long does it take to climb to the summit?
We spent around 7.5 hours in total which included plenty of short stops along the way, as well as a longer stop on the summit before heading back down. It can be done quicker but I’d suggest a minimum of four to five hours.
How difficult is the climb?
It’s not an overly difficult walk but it does have some challenges. The ground is stony and uneven underfoot with the steep, rocky terrain at the top. However, if you’ve got a decent level of fitness, you’ll be able to handle it.
What should you take with you?
There are a few essentials you need for climbing Jebel Musa.
Footwear. It’s very rocky so you’ll need good walking shoes or boots – if they have ankle support then that’s even better.
Water. You will need to bring plenty of water with you. I love my Chilly’s bottle which keeps water cold for 24 hours or a water bladder for your backpack is a good option.
Food. It’s hungry work climbing a mountain so take something to eat along the way. Fruit and energy bars are a good option. I’d bought some delicious Moroccan sweets made with figs and dates ahead of the climb which were a welcome treat at the summit.
Sunscreen. Even during the winter months temperatures hover around 15c so it’s always worth applying sunscreen. Nobody wants painful sunburn to be the overriding memory of their climb to the top of Jebel Musa.
Warm clothing. The weather can be changeable so it’s always worth putting a hoodie or light jacket in your backpack even if the sun is shining when you start to walk.
Phone and/or camera. The views along the way, and particularly from the top, are outstanding so don’t forget a camera. You’ll need it for the all-important photo at the summit to prove that you made it to the top!
Hat and sunglasses. The sun is strong in Morocco so something to protect your head and eyes is essential.
Hiking poles. The use of poles seems to divide the hiking community but, in this instance, it’s well worth bringing a pair particularly for easing stress on your knees on the downhill stretch from the summit.
I hope you’ve found this helpful if you’re thinking of climbing Jebel Musa. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or, if you’ve done the hike yourself, let me know in the comments.
Happy hiking!
Tangier Essential Information
Getting to Tangier
There are regular flights from all over Europe to Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport as well as ferry services from Spain. The ferry from Tarifa takes an hour and brings you directly into the centre of Tangier.
It’s worth noting that there’s a ferry from Algeciras that takes you to Tangier Med which is around 40 kms from Tangier itself. If you’re only coming to climb Jebel Musa then it may be worth taking this option but, if you plan to spend any time in Tangier, I’d recommend departing from Tarifa.
The ferry has a café and duty-free shop on board plus plenty of comfortable seating. When you check in at Tarifa you’ll be given an immigration form to fill out – once on board you need to take this to the passport control desk to have your passport stamped. It gets very busy so I’d suggest doing this early on in the journey to avoid any delays disembarking.
Where to stay in Tangier
Visitors to Tangier have the choice of staying in the old town where you can stay in a traditional riad or in the newer part of town.
On my first visit to Tangier I stayed in the old town in Dar Jameel, a beautiful riad on the edge of the medina and an easy walk from the ferry port. It has a roof terrace with excellent views over the old town as well as the modern port area and promenade, plus a great traditional breakfast.
For a modern hotel experience, Hotel Kenzi Solazur on Avenue Mohamed VI overlooks the beach but is still within walking distance to the medina.
Getting Around Tangier
Tangier is easy accessible on foot and, in fact, in some parts such as the medina it’s the only way to get about.
If you do want to head out of Tangier there are petit taxi drivers on just about every street corner but, on the off chance that you don’t spot one (or get touted for business), head to the Grand Socco where you’ll have no trouble finding one.
For longer distances, a grand taxi is ideal. These are more luxurious than the petit taxis and generally very reasonably priced. They seat up to six people so, obviously, the more passengers the cheaper the cost.
You could also hire a car if you plan to see more of Morocco than just Tangier. I always use Discover Cars who have pick up locations in around the city including the airport.
Currency
The official currency of Morocco is the dirham. If you’ve just travelled over from Spain you may be able to spend your Euros in some places but I’d recommend getting some local currency. There are plenty of bureau de change in Tangier and you should get a good rate of exchange as the dirham is a closed currency which means it’s not usually available outside of Morocco. If you do find somewhere to buy dirhams before you travel don’t expect a favourable exchange rate.
For that reasons it’s worth considering an international debit card which enables you to spend abroad without having to worry about unfavourable exchange rates.
A Wise account gives you access to more than 50 currencies and also enables you to withdraw up to €200 per month free of charge at ATMs abroad.
Travel Insurance
I never travel without taking out insurance. You might think you don’t need it but you never know what can happen so it’s better to be safe than sorry. I use Globelink International who offer value for money insurance for travellers worldwide.
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Well that was a comprehensive, informative and well-researched evaluation. Excellent work Alison. The accent was certainly challenging but very much worth it. It’s certainly a hike I would consider again. Love your site! You may be pleased to know that your website came first up on a Google search when I was researching Jebel Musa for my photobook. Good work!
Thanks Darrell. It was definitely tougher than I was expecting but at least we all made it in one piece! 😉
Have you seen that Ria is organising a three peaks challenge in October? La Concha, the Med Steps, and then Jebel Musa. I’m quite tempted but need to check the dates as we’ve got lots of visitors coming in the autumn.
We haven’t visited Morocco but it is most definitely on our radar. This was a really detailed guide to the Jebel Musa climb. The rocky bit does look a touch tricky – as you say, going down doesn’t look much easier than going up. On a big climb, we often take the opportunity for a photo stop and a breather! Congratulations on making it to the top. The views are absolutely spectacular!
Wow! What a lovely achievement. The views look spectacular and well worth the climb in that heat! The contrast in terrain looks incredible in the photos. The final ascent/descent looks very brutal. Great post and congratulations on reaching the top!
Ooh, I love that you hopped over the water to share this fabulous climb. I remember learning about the trials of Hercules in primary school, and thus began by obsession with Greek mythology. I would absolutely do this climb, and I think the way you did it with accommodation and ferry included sounds like a really good idea, and not too expensive. Those views are incredible, and seem to be well worth the effort it must take to get to the top.
Well done Alison, you have defo earned those bragging rights. I really appreciated the many pictures showing the actual path and hiking conditions, rather than just text and descriptios. I got a great overview of the hike and fully agree, the last bit was a challenge. I got sweaty palms just seeing the huge boulders, luckily you had brought your hiking poles along. Those are definitely needed on such rough terrain. I agree with Emma, the deal including not only the hike in a group but also transfer and accommodation is worth it.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
I will never be fit enough to hike this, but I’m so glad you have! Enjoyed seeing your photos and reading so much information about Jebel Musa, and you must have felt so proud when you’d got to the top. Amazing!
What an impressive achievement! My days of trying such a climb are long over but this is a great and detailed guide for those fit enough to consider it. Your photos are wonderful. Congratulations!