Day ten on the Camino Portugués between Redondela and Pontevedra was, on the whole, a delight – I covered 12.39 miles (19.94 kms) with some pretty steep hills, but the scenery made it all worthwhile. From the little I’ve seen so far, Galicia really is a beautiful part of Spain.
Day Ten: Redondela to Pontevedra
Date: Saturday 30 April 2022
Start Point: A Boa Estrela, Redondela
End Point: dpaso Urban Hostel, Pontevedra
Distance Walked: 12.39 miles (19.94 kms)
Time Taken: 5 hours 20 minutes (including rest stops)
Weather: Sunny
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It was fairly early (by my standards) when I left Redondela. After a quick coffee I set off with the plan to have breakfast by the bridge in Ponte Sampaio, about five miles (eight kms) away.
Leaving Redondela
I’d had a great sleep at A Boa Estrela and, again, it was handily right on the Camino so I could get up and away easily. I hadn’t been on the road for more than a few minutes when I caught up with the group of Californians who I’d bumped into most days along the way. I didn’t realise at the time, but this was the last time that we would see each other.
I walked with them for a few miles and, at one point, a car stopped to speak to us and a local man gave us all a small wooden charm shaped like an arrow. What a lovely gesture and a great souvenir.
The early part of the day was hilly although the climb up Alto de Lomba out of Redondela did mean I was rewarded with views of the Vigo estuary in the distance.
Walking along the forest paths on Alto de Lomba I could hear the sound of bagpipes and, as I rounded a bend in the path, there was a woman piping.
Known as a gaita, these bagpipes are traditional instruments of Galicia and northern Portugal. Smaller and higher in pitch than their Scottish cousins, gaitas have been played in these parts since the Middle Ages.
Along this section of the way there are souvenir stands that enterprising people have set up in the forest. I stopped at the first one I saw and bought a small wooden fridge magnet shaped like a scallop shell. It wasn’t long before I passed another where, despite me not buying anything, they were happy to stamp my credencial.
Descending Alto de Lomba, the road eventually reaches the N550 where you have to walk for around half a mile along the side of the highway. Although the Camino generally avoids busy roads, this was one stretch where I had to keep my wits about me with cars speeding past just inches away.
Thankfully, I was soon on safer ground and on the outskirts of the town of Arcade. Arcade is a small town and, as it was a Saturday morning, it was buzzing with activity but I didn’t stop as I had breakfast on my mind.
Arcade is renowned for its oysters so, if you’re a fan, you might decide to stay here for the night instead of Redondela and enjoy some of the local delicacies in one of the town’s seafood restaurants.
The oysters are at their best in early spring and, on the first weekend of every April, there’s an entire festival dedicated to them.
Breakfast with a view
I was looking forward to reaching Ponte Sampaio and having a breakfast stop but as I neared the medieval bridge to take me across the Rio Verdugo I wasn’t feeling too optimistic at getting a space at A Romana – there was a youth group of some sort there and what seemed to be fifty or more pilgrims crowding the road and the exit from the bridge.
It must have been my lucky day though as, just as I started to cross the bridge, most of them picked up their belongings and set off. How fortunate, as I was really hungry by now!
I took a seat outside where I could soak up the sun and take in the beautiful view of the bridge over the river. This is where Napoleon’s army fought their last battle in Galicia – now the only troops crossing were the many groups of pilgrims.
With a tortilla and a café con leche I settled down for a spot of people watching before it was time to head off again – only seven or so miles (11 kms) left to Pontevedra.
Leaving Ponte Sampaio the path winds through small residential streets before eventually giving way to more forests where it’s uphill all the way! Despite the climb there were more small souvenir stands (thankfully the souvenirs are all small items like keyrings, magnets, and bracelets so, if you are tempted at each one, they won’t take up any room in your backpack or weigh you down!), and another piper in a clearing in the woods.
Much of the rest of the walk was through shady forests and, with the sun shining, it was a beautiful day despite the steep climb up Alto da Canivouva.
Along the way I passed some interesting pilgrim shrines and metal sculptures where rest stops were set up in the shade of the trees.
Leaving the forest behind there was a section of the way where it looks as though a major road is under construction – a bit jarring after the beauty of the forest but, thankfully, it was only a very small stretch and easily navigated.
I’ve since walked this stretch again when I walked the Coastal route from Porto and the construction has now been complete so, if you’re planning your Camino, it will be prettier than this! You can read what this stage is like now in this post.
Passing through this stretch, the road continued past fields and grape vines and the small Capela de Santa Marta.
While I’d seen lots of small churches on the Portuguese side, here I was mostly seeing horreos (grain stores) and lavanderias. The lavanderias are communal areas found in villages throughout Galicia where, in the days before running water, the women would gather to meet and do their laundry.
Another detour
Getting closer to Pontevedra and, just like on the way to O Porriño, there was the opportunity to take a detour to avoid the busy, less scenic, road. Despite being slightly longer, the choice to walk along a tree-lined path next to the Rio Tomeza rather than follow the official path seemed like a no-brainer to me especially as it had been recommended by one of the souvenir sellers who I’d chatted to earlier in the day.
Today had been noticeably much busier than previous days so it was a joy to take the detour and walk a few miles without groups of people around me. I’m not saying I’m anti-social but I’m sure I’d seen more pilgrims in the first few hours of today’s walk than in the previous nine days combined.
The path criss-crossed the river by various wooden and old stone bridges and, just before joining up with the main path again, goes through an underpass where the area had been jazzed up with some street art.
Arriving in Pontevedra
Leaving the peace and tranquillity of the detour behind I was back on the main way into Pontevedra and surrounded by dozens of pilgrims. I hadn’t been around so many people since doing some sight-seeing in Porto before I started walking.
I have to say it was a little disconcerting after over a week of solo walking and only meeting one or two other pilgrims at any one time.
If there’s a positive side to the crowds it’s that it’s hard to get lost so I forgot about looking for yellow arrows and just followed the hordes until I reached my home for the night, dpaso Urban Hostel – another choice right on the way (there’s even a yellow arrow on one of the walls).
My first Camino dorm
This was the night I wasn’t particularly looking forward to as I was booked into a hostel dorm – the first time since my backpacking days in the mid-1990s! I know the true spirit of the Camino is to embrace communal living but it’s just not something that I particularly enjoy and, even in my younger days, it was something I avoided wherever possible.
However, it seems that hostels have come a long way in the last 25 or so years and the bunks in dpaso were like little pods with privacy curtains and everything so it wasn’t as bad as I feared!
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Central route of the Camino Portugués here.
Exploring Pontevedra
After a shower, I was keen to see what Pontevedra had to offer so set off towards the historic centre of the city.
Capela da Virxe Peregrina
This was my first stop – the Church of the Pilgrim Virgin in the centre of Pontevedra’s old town.
Shaped like a scallop shell the church stands in the centre of one of the squares in the historic centre, with a fountain in front.
Dodging a group of girls making Tik Tok videos I entered the church (admission is free and you can get your credencial stamped too) and for €1 was able to climb to the dome. Heading up the spiral staircase, I reached a ledge that ran around the dome where I got a bird’s eye view of the layout of the church and could fully appreciate its scallop shape. Heading up to the dome also gave me a close up view of the stained glass with more scallop shell designs to admire.
Ravachol Parrot
Just outside the church you’ll spot a brass statue of a parrot. The bird, named Ravachol after a famous French revolutionary of the time, was the pet of the pharmacist Perfecto Feijoo whose business stood in the Plaza de la Peregrina. The parrot lived in Pontevedra from 1891 and 1913 and became such a big part of the city that, even today, its burial is commemorated during the annual Carnival.
Convento de San Francisco
A short walk away is the Convento de San Francisco which stands overlooking the gardens and fountain in Plaza de Ferreria. Dating from the 14th century legend has it that it was founded by Francis of Assisi, who stopped in Pontevedra when he was walking to Santiago.
Food in Pontevedra
Whatever type of food you’re looking for I would hazard a guess that Pontevedra has got you covered – it’s even got a McDonalds if you’re that way inclined.
I opted for a visit to Piada Romagnola on Rua Garcia Camba where I had a healthy tuna and avocado salad bowl and a freshly squeezed juice.
Pontevedra is another place that would make for an interesting rest day if you’ve factored in time for this on the way to Santiago. From my brief time there it seems that it’s a lovely city and it would be easy to spend a day enjoying the sights.
Today’s Credencial Sellos
A busy day of sello collecting with six added to my credencial.
If you want to walk the Camino but don’t know where to begin I’ve written this Camino Portugués planning guide which tells you everything you need to know and outlines all the steps you need to take to get you on your way.
Highlights of Day Ten
Walking through the forests between Redondela and Ponte Sampaio, listening to the sounds of bagpipes in the distance was a magical part of the day.
Lowlights of Day Ten
The crowds. I knew it was going to get busier the closer I got to Santiago, but I wasn’t anticipating just how busy. The previous nine days have been mostly solitary, occasionally crossing paths with just the same few groups of fellow pilgrims so today has been an eye opener.
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Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Central route adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Vila Chã
Day 2 – Vila Chã to São Pedro de Rates
Day 3 – São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos
Day 4 – Barcelos to Balugães
Day 5 – Balugães to Ponte de Lima
Day 6 – Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
Day 7 – Rubiães to Tui
Day 8 – Tui to O Porriño
Day 9 – O Porriño to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Armenteira
Day 12 – Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa
Day 13 – Vilanova de Arousa to Cruces
Day 14 – Cruces to Santiago de Compostela
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