As with stages one and two I was walking this stage and then returning home at the end of the day rather than staying in El Colmenar at the end of the stage. However, if you’re hiking straight through and intend to stay in El Colmenar there are a few accommodation options available in the area.
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Stage Three. Jimena de la Frontera to El Colmenar
Date: Sunday 21 April 2024
Start Point: Avenida los Deportes, Jimena de la Frontera
End Point: Estacion de Gaucin, El Colmenar
Distance Walked: 13.33 miles (21.45 kms)
Time Taken: 5 hours 48 minutes (including a rest stop and a few wrong turns)
Weather: Partly cloudy
I set off mid-morning from Avenida los Deportes where I’d finished stage two, and took the main road out of Jimena de la Frontera. At the end of the road before it split, an arrow painted on a road sign pointed to the left – did this mean down the dirt track to the left or should I continue on the main road? Checking Wikiloc it appeared that I should take the dirt track so, passing through a gate, I walked through a field and then hit a problem – thanks to the rain that we’d had recently the way was totally waterlogged so it was time to backtrack to the main road!
It was pretty frustrating as, when I checked my route on Map My Walk later, I’d been so close to reaching the main road but just couldn’t have made it without getting wet feet – not ideal so early in the day.
Back on the main road and it wasn’t long before I was questioning the right way again. It honestly seems like it doesn’t take a lot for confusion to arise on the Via Serrana! There’s a narrow path that runs alongside the wall of a house (where there’s a Via Serrana tile on the wall) but also a wider path right next to it. I started to walk up the wider of the two paths but Wikiloc let me know I was going off the trail so I backtracked quickly and took the narrow path.
The path started between two fences and then continued between trees before reaching a main road where yellow arrows pointed the way past San Pablo’s cemetery. From here it was a short distance to the Algeciras – Bobadilla railway line which I crossed and continued along another narrow path before passing a small hamlet and reaching the Jimena to Gaucin main road.
I continued on the road, which was thankfully quiet, before reaching the outskirts of San Pablo de Buceite. The way into town goes along Avenida de la Diputación, a wide tree lined street over the Arroyo de los Fresnos, before reaching Plaza Constitución where I stopped to admire the sculptures that formed part of the International Meeting of Contemporary Art in 2023.
From there I strolled along Calle Real which was pretty lively for a sunny Sunday, with the parish church of San Pedro y San Pablo Apóstoles at the end.
Just past the church there are some more pieces that form part of the Contemporary Art meeting. As well as a concrete chair there are some cute geese with strawberries hanging from their beaks painted on the walls.
Leaving San Pablo de Buceite was straightforward, crossing the Guadiaro river and walking between orange groves. If the sound of stage three was barking dogs, then the smell of this stage was orange blossom. The emergence of the azahar is one of my favourite things about spring in Andalucia when the smell of the blossom floats on the breeze and lingers in the air.
Leaving the main road I was now walking on the Cañada Real de Gaucin and, as the dark clouds had now well and truly disappeared, it was now blue sky overhead.
I soon reached the entrance to Cortijo Los Lirios and was relieved to find that, although it was closed, it wasn’t locked so I could easily pass through.
While trying to find information on the Via Serrana I’d discovered that sometimes the gate is open, sometimes it’s closed and locked, sometimes it’s closed and unlocked – it seems to be a game of chance as to how you’ll find it on any given day!
Thankfully today it was unlocked which was a relief as scaling a wall or making a detour hadn’t been on my agenda for the day!
From the gate it was now all uphill. The path goes up straight ahead from the gate between the wooden posts as far as the Cortijo. It was time to get my hiking poles out for this stretch – the first time I felt I’d actually needed them.
At the top of the hill I passed to the right of the Cortijo and started a longer uphill trek. Cows were grazing either side of the path but were totally disinterested in this random walker. Up and up the path went with the views getting ever more impressive the higher I climbed.
Passing a small ruin on the left I continued upwards where, eventually, the path plateaued and I decided to stop for a lunch break.
Although the path had been all uphill it hadn’t been especially difficult but it was still good to take a breather, enjoy my lunch, and sit on the grass watching vultures soaring in the skies above.
At this point I knew I didn’t have too many miles left to walk, and still had plenty of time before my train back to Almoraima. If only I’d known what lay ahead…
I started the descent down a gravel path which wasn’t too steep but I kept my poles handy just in case.
I could see El Colmenar in the distance with the mountains of Parque Natural Grazalema as its backdrop. Not far to go now.
I eventually reached the main road to El Colmenar and started to walk down it only for Wikiloc to tell me I’d once again strayed off the trail.
Backtracking I realised I’d missed a gate, so I went through and continued through the field on a narrow stony path. Exiting the field I failed to notice another gate directly in front of me and blithely followed the path to the right where I ended up at a farmhouse serenaded by yet more barking dogs. Realising I’d taken yet another wrong turn I retraced my steps and found the path that I should have been on.
This is where things started to go horribly wrong! The first part of the path was fairly straightforward and I even spotted a yellow arrow painted on a rock.
Then the path vanished and I was lost in a field of wildflowers almost as tall as I am. Several times I thought I’d found the path but realised, each time, that I was simply going round in circles. I’m sure I passed the same grazing cow about half a dozen times!! By now I was starting to worry that I was going to miss my train and have a four hour wait for the next one. Wikiloc was of absolutely no help to me and neither was Google Maps. Things were not looking good.
After another fruitless search for the path I heard voices and could see the heads of a man and young boy bobbing above the wildflowers. They looked as though they knew where they were going so I appeared out of the maze of flowers just behind them and followed them. I realised that I’d already walked part of the path they were taking so I’d actually been so near to finding my way out!!
I followed them through a gate and was now finally back on the main road with very little time to spare. Luckily I’m an occasional runner (although not usually wearing a backpack) but I had no time to waste so found myself sprinting over the bridge and up the hill towards the station.
As I huffed and puffed my way over the tracks and onto the station platform I was greeted with the best news – the train was delayed by five minutes! Never have I been so thankful for a delay in public transport and, from experience, it’s not something that happens often in Spain.
All in all a stressful end to what has been my favourite stage so far even if my plans to end my walk with a relaxing café con leche in El Colmenar had been scuppered!
Highlights of Stage Three of the Via Serrana
The second part of the day from San Pablo de Buceite to El Colmenar was lovely – the sun was out and the views were spectacular. This was spring in Andalucia at its finest and made me realise why I’m so grateful to live here.
Lowlights of Stage Three of the Via Serrana
Obviously getting lost not once, not twice, but three times wasn’t ideal but, if I’d been staying in El Colmenar rather than getting the train home, even that wouldn’t have been an issue. There are worse places to get lost that’s for sure!
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Happy hiking!
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