Day ten on the Camino Portugués between Redondela and Pontevedra is one that I walked on my first Camino back in 2022 when I took the Central route from Porto, so I was interested to see if there had been (m)any changes. It had been one of my favourite stages – would that be the case this time around?
Day Ten: Redondela to Pontevedra
Date: Tuesday 8 October 2024
Start Point: El Piso de la Placita, Redondela
End Point: Hotel Madrid, Pontevedra
Distance Walked: 13.32 miles (21.44 kms)
Time Taken: 5 hours 39 minutes (including rest stops)
Weather: Cloudy but dry
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Leaving Redondela
We were up and away fairly early again this morning. The fact that I’m using a luggage transfer service this time around and bags have to be ready for collection by 8am is one reason why I’m setting off earlier than on my first Camino when I carried my backpack.
We stopped for our first coffee of the day in Café Samoa near our apartment and got a free serving of churros with our café con leche – if only all days started like this!!
It was a cloudy morning, but at least it was dry, as we set off from Redondela. It’s well marked to get out of the town although it is uphill. Once out of the town itself the path leads through small villages before turning into a forested area.
At one point there’s a choice of two paths – both fairly short but with a big difference in gradient.
I opted for the short, sharp shock and, to be fair, it wasn’t too bad. This is a new section since I last walked this way. Back then there was a busy stretch along the side of the N-550 – I think the trade off (a brief steep uphill climb or a walk along the side of a motorway) paid off.
It’s along this stretch that we met our first souvenir seller in the forest. Although we didn’t buy anything (there are magnets, bracelets, and other small Camino related items) the woman behind the stand was happy to stamp our credencials.
By now we were walking through Arcade and I’d been waxing lyrical about the breakfast I’d enjoyed last time at the small café next to the bridge in Pontesampaio. In fact, the thought of a café con leche and a slice of tortilla was really keeping me going.
As we got closer to the bridge it seemed very quiet. Yes, there was a steady stream of pilgrims crossing but they all seemed to be carrying straight on – surely the café wasn’t closed. Reaching the other side my worst fears were confirmed – there would be no repeat of that tasty breakfast. In fact, we struggled to find anywhere open for a coffee break so found a spot in a small park by the water and had a break and some of the snacks we’d stocked up on before leaving Redondela.
On our way again the path winds through small residential streets before eventually giving way to more forests – and more uphill climbs! Last time I walked this way there had been more souvenir stands in the forests as well as some traditional Galician bagpipers. This time around we walked with only the sounds of other pilgrims around us which was a shame as there was something quite lovely about hearing a distant piper as you walked along a woodland track.
There might not have been pipers but there were pilgrim shrines and, regardless, this is a really lovely section through the forest.
Leaving the forest we crossed over the motorway (there’s a bridge that was under construction last time) and then continued on narrow country roads for a time before stopping for a well-earned coffee at Bar Casa Fermin. You can’t miss it!
A detour – or not!
As the road gets closer to Pontevedra there’s the option to take a scenic route into the city. Or at least that was the case last time. Now the Complementario way marker had been covered up. I don’t know how long it’s been like that but, hopefully, it’s just a temporary measure due to the bad weather that we’ve been having.
The alternative route off the table we walked along the official path into Pontevedra. Much of the way is along main roads through the Pontevedra suburbs. Not unpleasant but if the Complementario route is open when you walk from Redondela to Pontevedra take it – it’s definitely the more enjoyable of the two routes.
Arriving in Pontevedra
Passing underneath a motorway bridge the official path and the Complementario path converge and we found ourselves in a steady stream of pilgrims heading into Pontevedra.
We were staying at Hotel Madrid, not too far off the official path. We arrived before check-in and just as it started to rain so, wet weather gear on, we ventured into the town centre for lunch.
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Coastal route of the Camino Portugués here.
Exploring Pontevedra
After a tasty lunch of a vegetarian piada, an Italian flatbread, at Piada Romagnola on Rúa García Camba we headed back to our hotel to check in and have a shower before venturing out to have a look around Pontevedra.
As it was raining on and off (mostly on) we didn’t really see a lot but, there’s certainly enough to see and do in an afternoon.
If you want to know about things to do in Pontevedra plus what the Complementario route is like have a read of this post on the Redondela to Pontevedra stage that I wrote after my first Camino.
We did find a lovely coffee shop which sold the most delicious brownies (MEU Bakery and Coffee on Rúa Marqués de Riestra) and later in the evening headed back to Piada Romagnola for more food before calling it a night. There are loads of places to eat in Pontevedra – we were tired and just went for the convenience of what we knew although we did earmark somewhere for breakfast in the morning.
Weather warnings
It was still raining when we headed back to our hotel for the night and there was no sign of it stopping at any time. In fact, looking at news reports it seemed that Galicia was under threat from Storm Kirk which was wreaking havoc across the area.
As with the stage from Vigo to Redondela when we set off late, we made the decision again that, if necessary, we’d wait until late morning to set off for Caldas de Reis if the storm was as bad as predicted.
Today’s Credencial Sellos
A busy day with four sellos today including a very pretty one from the souvenir stand in the forest.
If you want to walk the Camino but don’t know where to begin I’ve written this Camino Portugués planning guide which tells you everything you need to know and outlines all the steps you need to take to get you on your way.
Highlights of Day Ten
There was some lovely forest walking on this section although it’s a shame that the pipers weren’t out when we walked through – I’m blaming the weather!
Lowlights of Day Ten
The official route into Pontevedra isn’t particularly inspiring so if the Complementario route is open I’d recommend taking it as it’s a much nicer way to reach the city. At least today the rain held off until we’d arrived!
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Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Coastal adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Day 2 – Praia de Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim
Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 4 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Day 6 – Caminha to Oia
Day 7 – Oia to Baiona
Day 8 – Baiona to Vigo
Day 9 – Vigo to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 12 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 13 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
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