Arriving in Santiago de Compostela and standing in front of the cathedral is a momentous occasion whether it’s your first Camino or you’ve got a few under your belt.
Whether you’ve walked from Porto on either the Central or Coastal route of the Camino Portugués, walked the last 100 kms from Sarria on the Camino Francés or you’ve done the full stretch from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, every footstep you’ve made has led to this moment!
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I had no idea how I was going to react when arriving in Santiago after my first Camino and was surprised at just how emotional I felt. I’ll be honest and say that there were tears as I entered Plaza del Obradoiro.
I’ve walked three Caminos now and have had the same reaction each time – there honestly is nothing quite like it. To take off your backpack, sit down in the sun (okay, this was only for my first one – it was raining the next two times I reached Santiago), and just soak up the atmosphere while watching Plaza del Obradoiro fill with other pilgrims is quite magical.
After arriving in Santiago and spending some time in front of the cathedral there are a few post-Camino practicalities every pilgrim needs to deal with.
The order in which you do them will depend on your arrival time and how long you’re planning to stay in Santiago.
For example, if you arrive in Santiago in the morning you might decide to attend mass before you think about going to collect your Compostela, but if you’re heading home the same day you should make getting your Compostela a priority in case there are any queues and you have to wait a while.
Collect your Compostela
The Compostela is the certificate that confirms that you’ve officially completed your pilgrimage for spiritual or religious reasons. If you haven’t walked for either of those reasons you’ll get a Welcome Certificate instead.
To collect your Compostela you’ll need to head to the pilgrim’s office which is a short walk from the cathedral on Rúa das Carretas. The office is open every day (except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day) from 9am until 7pm.
You’ll get the final stamp in your credencial here marking the definitive end to your journey.
To get the certificate you have to show that you’ve walked at least 100 continuous kms on the same route to Santiago. The final stage must include at least the last one leading to the cathedral. This is why collecting the stamps in your credencial along the way is so important.
The Compostela is written in Latin and, in keeping with the tradition, the pilgrim’s name is translated to Latin too.
The Compostela is free but for €3 you can also request a Certificate of Distance to show how far you’ve walked, and from where.
Instructions for getting the Compostela
The system for collecting the Compostela has been streamlined in recent years, mainly due to the increased number of pilgrims arriving in Santiago, so you’re unlikely to have to wait too long. I’ve been three times now and never had to wait for more than fifteen minutes.
✅ You can register in advance which will give you a QR code although this isn’t necessary.
✅ Once at the pilgrim’s office you will need to present the QR code for entry to the office. If you haven’t registered in advance it’s not a problem as you can do it when you arrive.
✅ You then collect a ticket with another QR code – this is your line number. You can scan this to see how far you are from the front of the queue and how long you have to wait.
✅ Once your number is called you will need to show your credencial with all your sellos, plus your passport or ID card, at which point you’ll be given your Compostela.
Leaving the office clutching your Compostela is another special moment in the post-Camino process.
Head to your accommodation
Many pilgrims decide to upgrade from an albergue to a hotel in Santiago. If you’ve slept in dorms for weeks it’s a real treat to have a room to yourself.
I always book a pilgrim’s room at Hospedería San Martín Pinario which is the perfect post-Camino place to stay.
It’s a converted monastery, just a stone’s throw from the cathedral where you’ll stay in one of the original monk’s cells.
The rooms are basic but for €30 you get a private room with your own bathroom and a decent breakfast included too. The pilgrim rooms can only be booked directly by email to reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu and do need to be booked in advance.
If there are no pilgrim rooms available they do have other modernised rooms which are more expensive but still reasonably priced given the location.
In any case I’d recommend staying close to the cathedral in or around the old town.
Of course, if money is no object why not splurge and book a room at the parador, Hostal dos Reis Católicos, right on the square by the cathedral.
Visit the cathedral and pay your respects to St James for keeping you safe on your journey
There are two ways of doing this. The first way is by taking the steps under the altar to visit his tomb. This small crypt contains the bones of St James and is accessed by a narrow staircase opposite the Holy Doors.
The second way is by heading up the steps behind the altar where there is a small statue – pilgrims can choose to either place a hand on him or embrace him from behind.
Entry to the cathedral is by the main doors on the Plaza del Obradoiro but if it’s a Holy Year you can enter through the holy doors on Plaza de la Quintana.
A Holy Year occurs whenever Saint James Day (25th July) falls on a Sunday. This only takes place every few years and, due to leap years, they only happen 14 times each century.
It’s free to enter the cathedral but if you want to take the rooftop tour or visit the cathedral museum you will need to pay. The rooftop tour is well worth taking and the views over Santiago from the roof of the cathedral are excellent.
Attend the pilgrim’s mass
Even if you haven’t walked the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons it’s still a meaningful experience to attend the pilgrim’s mass.
Pilgrim’s mass is held four times a day at 7.30am, 9.30am, 12 noon, and 7.30pm.
You should try to arrive early to make sure you get a seat as it’s a case of first come, first served. After my first Camino I was lucky to get a seat on the second row but on subsequent ones I’ve had to stand at the back of the cathedral as it was full.
One of the things that many pilgrims want to see when they attend the pilgrim’s mass is the swinging of the botafumeiro. The botafumeiro in Santiago is one of the largest incense burners in the world and operates only on special occasions, unless you’re prepared to pay to see it. The official website of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela has a list of all the dates that you can witness the swinging of the botafumeiro plus the information you need if you wish to request it outside of these dates.
I’ve been lucky enough to see it twice – it’s an unforgettable experience.
If you arrive in Santiago and plan to go straight to mass, you won’t be allowed into the cathedral with your backpack. Instead you can leave it at the Post Office on Rúa do Franco, a short walk from the cathedral, for a small fee.
Celebrate!
Whether you’ve picked up a Camino family along the way or you’re on your own now is the time to celebrate your achievement.
There’s no right way to celebrate – it could be as simple as selfies in Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the cathedral, to a full-scale Galician feast with friends in one of the many restaurants in the old town. Some pilgrims even celebrate by getting a tattoo!
After my first Camino I treated myself to an al fresco lunch at the Parador. Not a bad spot to enjoy a bite to eat and a Peregrina beer.
Enjoy everything Santiago has to offer
It’s worth spending at least a day in Santiago after your arrival as there’s so much to see and do in the city.
One thing I always like to do is spend some time in the square in front of the cathedral watching all the new pilgrims arriving in Santiago. It’s just as emotional watching the reaction of other pilgrims as it is arriving yourself.
Even if you don’t have long in Santiago make sure to try a slice or two of the delicious tarta de Santiago.
This post has plenty of suggestions for things to do in Santiago after the Camino.
Consider continuing your journey
Many pilgrims continue their Camino beyond Santiago by walking to either Finisterre or Muxía.
If you don’t have time to walk there (or your feet just need a break) you can easily get there by bus.
Alternatively, you can take a day trip which covers both Finisterre and Muxía plus some other sights along the way. This post has all the information on what to expect from a day trip to Finisterre and Muxía.
Final thoughts
After arriving in Santiago take some time to savour it. You don’t have to do everything straightaway. You don’t even have to do everything the day you arrive if you don’t want to.
Sorting your accommodation, if you haven’t already, and collecting your Compostela should be your priority but everything else can wait a few hours, or even a day.
I hope that you’ve found this post helpful – let me know your favourite post-Camino celebrations in the comments.
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Buen Camino!
Other posts you might like
🥾 Walking the Central Route of the Camino Portugués – a 14 Day Itinerary
🥾 Walking the Coastal Route of the Camino Portugués – a 13 Day Itinerary
🥾 Walking the Camino Francés from Sarria to Santiago
🥾 Camino Portugués Central Route Accommodation Guide
🥾 Camino Portugués Coastal Route Accommodation Guide
🥾 Camino Francés Accommodation Guide
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