Day four on the Camino Portugués between Esposende and Viana do Castelo was a long one and, unfortunately, it was one of those days where we needed our wet weather gear for most of the day! This is the stage where the Coastal route is significantly different from the Senda Litoral and as I’d previously walked the Coastal section in 2023 we planned to take the Senda Litoral all the way.
Day Four: Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Date: Wednesday 2 October 2024
Start Point: InnEsposende Sports Hostel, Esposende
End Point: Casa Melo Alvim, Viana do Castelo
Distance Walked: 17.97 miles (28.92 kms)
Time Taken: 8 hours 1 minute (including rest stops and getting lost!)
Weather: Rainy and foggy
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Leaving Esposende
What a miserable morning it was when we hit the road. We left our accommodation early and headed to a supermarket for some supplies to keep us going throughout the day as, according to the Camino Ninja app, we were going to be walking around 17 miles (27.3 kms) today.
After breakfast in Pastelaria Marisita, a small bakery just off the seafront, we were off. The first part of the walk from Esposende is along the seafront which, on a sunny day, is lovely but with the grey clouds hanging over us and a heavy sea mist we could barely see what was in front of us.
Decisions decisions
After a couple of miles the decision needed to be made whether to continue on the road as it turns away from the ocean and follow the yellow arrows on the Coastal route, or go straight ahead and take the boardwalks of the Ecovia Litoral Norte.
Although there were quite a few other pilgrims on the road as we left Esposende, most decided to follow the inland path and Christine and I didn’t see anyone else for most of the day as we walked the path closest to the sea.
Most of the morning was spent walking along the boardwalks and occasionally on the beach (some parts were sandy but on others we were walking over pebbles which was tough going and I’m glad I wasn’t carrying my backpack this time around!).
Despite its name, even the Senda Litoral has some inland sections and at Praia do Belinho the path heads away from the coast for a time.
In Antas we stopped at Capela de Santa Tecla for something to eat sitting in the grounds of the church on the banks of the Rio Neiva. The weather was still miserable but at least it wasn’t raining – yet!
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By the time we reached the town of Castelo do Neiva it felt like walking on the Central route again with narrow cobbled streets winding through the village.
Dropping down towards the sea once more we stopped for lunch at Pastelaria Amorosa in Amorosa where I had a delicious smoked salmon toastie. Our timing couldn’t have been any better as it started to rain just as we arrived and it was torrential!
Another wrong turn
We actually weren’t too far away from Viana do Castelo at this stage but, once on our way again, disaster struck! After following the boardwalk along the beach we reached a section where sand had totally covered the walkway and we really weren’t sure what to do as it wasn’t clear which way we should go if we continued over the dunes. Even with Camino Ninja as our backup it was very confusing and, with no other pilgrims in sight to follow, we decided we should maybe look for a shortcut away from the beach.
This was totally the wrong thing to do and we ended up going full circle around a housing estate before coming out again by the sea pretty much where we’d started from! These were extra miles that we really didn’t need after an already long day!
Back at the sand dunes we just thought ‘sod it’ and set off over them. The dunes eventually become a sandy path which we followed before finding ourselves in a forest. After a few more missed turns we were finally getting closer to our destination – hallelujah!
Arriving in Viana do Castelo
To get to Viana do Castelo whether you take the Coastal route or the Senda Litoral you have to cross the Rio Lima using the Ponte Eiffel. Unlike the medieval bridge at Ponte de Lima, the bridge here was only opened in 1878 and was designed, as you might guess, by Gustave Eiffel who also designed the tower bearing his name in Paris.
It’s a busy bridge carrying trains on the lower deck with cars and pedestrians sharing the top deck. There’s a pedestrian walkway on each side of the bridge but they’re very narrow so you do need to keep your wits about you.
By the time we finally got to our hotel we’d been on the go for about eight hours and were soaked through despite our wet weather gear.
We were staying at Casa Melo Alvim, a beautiful old building near the railway station. When booking the accommodation for this trip I’d been tempted by the outdoor area and had visions of relaxing in the pool after a long day on my feet. Instead I found myself in my room trying to dry my soaking wet shoes with a hairdryer!! Any more days like this and trench foot was a very real possibility!!
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Coastal route of the Camino Portugués here.
Exploring Viana do Castelo
It was too wet and we were too tired to go out exploring but we did briefly head out to grab a coffee and cake before retiring early to finish off the food we’d bought at the supermarket earlier in the day.
If you do have time (and better weather) to see the sights the old town is lovely and worth a wander.
Riding the funicular railway is also highly recommended. The railway (Elevador de Santa Luzia) takes you to the top of Monte de Santa Luzia where, if the weather is good, you’ll have fantastic views along the coast so you can see just how far you’ve actually walked. The railway costs €2 for a one way ticket or €3 return and takes just over five minutes to reach the top.
You can also visit the Santuário de Santa Luzia, a beautiful basilica which overlooks the town and is reminiscent of Paris’s Sacré Coeur.
Of course, if you still have any energy after your day’s walking you can climb the several hundred steps to the top of the hill!
Today’s Credencial Sellos
Just the two sellos today – one from Pastelaria Marisita where we had breakfast and the other from Casa Melo Alvim. We’d asked for one at Pastelaria Amorosa but they didn’t have one unfortunately.
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Highlights of Day Four
At the time I couldn’t think of much that I’d enjoyed about day four – a long walk in bad weather with too many wrong turns. Writing this up now with the benefit of hindsight, it really wasn’t all bad although I’m glad I wasn’t walking this Camino solo. I think day four would have been a very different experience on my own.
Lowlights of Day Four
The rain. At times it was relentless which was such a shame as it meant we just had to put our heads down and march on without getting to take in any of the scenery. And of course, getting lost on a housing estate hadn’t been part of the plan!
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this and it’s inspired you to walk the Camino yourself. If you have any questions you can pop a comment below or, even better, why not come and join the Camino Portugués Planning Facebook group where you can chat to others who are planning, or have already walked, the Camino.
Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Coastal adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Day 2 – Praia de Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim
Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 4 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Day 6 – Caminha to Oia
Day 7 – Oia to Baiona
Day 8 – Baiona to Vigo
Day 9 – Vigo to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 12 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 13 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Read more Camino posts
Check out the Camino Portugués hub, where all the posts I’ve written are saved in one place to make it easier for you to find the information you need for your journey.
You can access it here: Complete Guide to Walking the Camino Portugués
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