Day seven on the Camino Portugués between Oia and Baiona was a short, fairly easy walk but it was a very very wet one! You’d think we’d be getting used to all the rain by now. At the end of this stage it also meant that we’d now officially passed the halfway point of our journey. Santiago was getting ever closer!
Day Seven: Oia to Baiona
Date: Saturday 5 October 2024
Start Point: Casa Toñi, Oia
End Point: Hotel Carabela la Pinta, Baiona
Distance Walked: 10.77 miles (17.33 kms)
Time Taken: 4 hours 3 minutes (including rest stops)
Weather: Rainy
This post may contain affiliate links which means if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended I may receive a commission. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help to keep this site going. Thank you for your support.
Leaving Oia
We were up quite early and, after saying goodbye to Toñi and thanking her for her great hospitality, we headed back to the official Camino path – an easy shortcut from Toñi’s house.
The weather was grey and overcast as we set off following the path alongside the sea but even in bad weather the Atlantic coast is pretty spectacular. I feel that I’ve had so many wet and grey days that I need to come back and do this all over again in the sunshine!
After a short distance the path led up to the PO-552 where we followed the yellow cycle path which runs alongside the main road before turning off and heading inland through farmland.
Eventually we reached a turning where pilgrims had left piles of painted stones and pebbles in front of the way marker. Some of the art work on the stones was fantastic as you can see from these photos – as someone who can barely draw a straight line with a ruler I was extremely impressed!
It was then time to turn back towards the coast where we eventually reconnected with the cycle path. By now it was starting to rain so we took refuge with a group of other pilgrims in a bus shelter until the worst of the rain had passed.
Once we reached the town of Mougás we stopped for our first coffee of the day in O Muiño – a popular spot which was busy with pilgrims trying to dry off as best as they could. We also bought a sandwich for lunch later on – if you get the chance to stop here and try their food I can recommend it.
Senda Litoral or Coastal Route?
Heading from Mougás we walked along the cycle path before dropping down briefly several times to walk alongside the ocean.
Approaching As Mariñas we had two choices – follow the yellow brick road (aka the cycle path) that runs parallel to the ocean or follow the official Camino arrows and take the inland path into Baiona.
The cycle path would have been the easier (but slightly longer) option in that it was nice and flat but we didn’t particularly want to keep walking alongside the main road so we took the official route which led us up into the hills.
It was a tough walk in parts and, of course, the bad weather didn’t really help. Some sections were quite steep and rocky underfoot and being wet it felt a bit treacherous at times, but it was lovely to walk through the eucalyptus forests, and the rain and mist did mean I was able to take some pretty atmospheric photos!
If you want to go to the sea glass beach near Baiona (Praia dos Cristais de Silleiro) you need to walk on the yellow cycle path rather than take the official Camino route. Once you reach a roundabout near the lighthouse (Faro Velho de Silleiro) just turn left and you’ll reach the beach.
I’d been looking forward to visiting the sea glass beach and, if the weather had been better, I’d have taken this route but in the pouring rain it really didn’t appeal to me. Next time!!
Once through the forest we were back on paved roads for the final stretch to Baiona. The road wound through small villages before we were back walking alongside a main road (there is a cycle path so it’s not dangerous) and over a motorway bridge. It was then downhill all the way to Baiona.
At this point I mostly had my head down and was marching on so that I could finally get to the hotel and dry off so the scenery or any points of interest totally passed me by!
Arriving in Baiona
We were staying at Hotel Carabela la Pinta, a small hotel in the old town, close to the harbour, and not too far off the official route.
We were soaked by the time we arrived and glad that we could check in straightaway despite arriving quite early in the afternoon.
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Coastal route of the Camino Portugués here.
Exploring Baiona
After the obligatory hot shower it had stopped raining so we set out to explore some of the town. We headed to the fortress which juts out into the sea (and houses the local Parador if you want a luxury stay in Baiona) and walked around the headland and on the walls surrounding the fort.
Baiona has some lovely looking beaches so in summer (or even on just a dry day) I imagine this would be an excellent place to have a rest day but, unfortunately, we hadn’t been out long when the heavens opened again and we made a dash back to the hotel.
We did head back out again later in the evening for dinner at La Boqueria where I had a very tasty vegetarian risotto. It’s a popular restaurant and was buzzing with pilgrims and locals alike – not surprising as it was a Saturday night.
Today’s Credencial Sellos
I got three sellos today – from our first coffee stop, our accommodation, and the restaurant where we ate dinner.
If you want to walk the Camino but don’t know where to begin I’ve written this Camino Portugués planning guide which tells you everything you need to know and outlines all the steps you need to take to get you on your way.
Highlights of Day Seven
I loved the inland stretch between Mougás and Baiona – it was very reminiscent of walking the Central route with the tracks through the eucalyptus forests.
Lowlights of Day Seven
So much rain!! Whenever I arrive in a new town when I’m walking the Camino I like to get out and about and see the sights (or at least as many as I can if time is limited).
However, our stay in Baiona was a bit of a washout so, apart from the brief walk around the fortress, I never even got to have a wander around the old town.
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this. If you want to read my latest posts you can sign up below to my monthly newsletter to receive them straight to your inbox. Even better, why not come and join the Camino Portugués Planning Facebook group where you can chat to others who are planning, or have already walked, the Camino.
Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Coastal adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Day 2 – Praia de Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim
Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 4 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Day 6 – Caminha to Oia
Day 7 – Oia to Baiona
Day 8 – Baiona to Vigo
Day 9 – Vigo to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 12 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 13 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Why not pin this for later and follow me on Facebook and Instagram for more inspiration, photos and updates?
