The big day had finally arrived. Day thirteen on the Camino Portugués between Padrón and Santiago de Compostela could only mean one thing – that another Camino was over.
Christine had been ill when we’d started our journey from Porto, we’d been stung by hornets, battered by Storm Kirk, and had made good use of our rain gear but the positives definitely outweighed the negatives.
Day Thirteen: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Date: Friday 11 October 2024
Start Point: Apartamento Salomé, Padrón
End Point: Plaza del Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela
Distance Walked: 16.16 miles (26.01 kms)
Time Taken: 5hours 59 minutes (including rest stops)
Weather: Rainy
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Leaving Padrón
It will still dark when we set off eager to get to Santiago. A stop for breakfast before we left Padrón and then we started to make our way out of the town. It was dry for the first five minutes and then we had to stop to pull on our rain gear. Just a typical day on this Camino!
We were passing through A Escravitude around 9am and were beckoned into the large church to get a stamp for our credencials. On my last Camino I hadn’t gone inside so it was good to see its interior and get out of the rain for a short time.
The stretch out of Padrón runs near to the N-550 but, although there is some walking alongside the motorway, thankfully there are some sections where we were walking along quiet paths through small hamlets and on forest trails – always my favourite parts of the Camino.
We had a coffee stop at a lovely little place called La Brujita in Rúa de Francos along the way and then kept walking until we reached O Milladoiro. A lot of pilgrims choose to stay in O Milladoiro as it’s less than five miles (eight kms) to Santiago which means they have a short final day so can get to Santiago early.
The rain had stopped by this point so we sat down for a picnic lunch by the small Capella Santa Maria Magdalena.
We didn’t want a proper lunch as we were already looking forward to revisiting our favourite vegetarian restaurant in Santiago. We first went to A Corre Vexeta when we finished the last 100 kms of the Camino Francés and were keen to go again – the asparagus soup is worth walking a Camino for!
Shortly after O Milladoiro there’s a choice of arrows to follow.
When I walked the Central route of the Camino Portugués I took the path to the right which took me along woodland paths and through the sleepy parish of Conxo.
This time I followed the arrows to the left – it’s slightly shorter but, if I’m being honest, it’s not as nice so, if you’re not sure which way to walk, go right.
When I’d walked on the path to the right I’d barely seen any other pilgrims. In fact, passing through Conxo I’d started to worry about whether I was actually going the right way.
This time, walking on the path to the left, there were a lot of others and at times it felt like we were part of one long convoy of pilgrims heading to our final destination led by a big group of Spanish pilgrims who were playing music and dancing, excited to reach Santiago.
Reaching Santiago de Compostela
By walking this way, the path leads through Santiago’s suburbs and eventually skirts the edge of Alameda Park before heading through the old town towards the cathedral. Five minute later and we’d made it!!
Christine and I were back in Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela for the second time in 2024. Unlike in May when we’d walked from Sarria on the Camino Francés it was dry when we arrived (although that didn’t last long!).
One of my favourite things to do after a Camino is to sit in the square and watch all the pilgrims arriving from different directions depending on which route they’ve walked so, after some celebratory arrival photos, we found ourselves a prime spot for people watching. Unfortunately, it wasn’t long before the rain started to fall again so we decided to pick up our Compostelas and then check in to our accommodation.
We were booked into Hospedería San Martín Pinario. Until I can afford a night or two at the Parador (Hostal dos Reis Católicos) then, as far as I’m concerned, the pilgrim rooms in San Martín Pinario are the perfect place to stay after the Camino. It’s a gorgeous historic building and so close to the Cathedral and the old town of Santiago.
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Coastal route of the Camino Portugués here.
Things to do after your Camino
If you’ve got a few days after your Camino there are loads of things to do in Santiago de Compostela but, as a pilgrim, these should be your priority.
Get the Compostela
The Compostela is the certificate that confirms that you’ve officially completed your pilgrimage for spiritual or religious reasons. If you haven’t walked for either of those reasons you’ll get a Welcome Certificate instead.
To get the certificate you have to show that you’ve walked at least 100 continuous kms on the same route to Santiago. The final stage must include at least the last one leading to the cathedral. This is why collecting the stamps in your credencial along the way is so important.
To collect your Compostela you need to go to the Pilgrim’s Office which is located close to the cathedral on Rúa das Carretas.
The Pilgrim’s Office is open every day (except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day) from 9am until 7pm.
The Compostela is written in Latin and, in keeping with the tradition, the pilgrim’s name is translated to Latin too.
The Compostela is free and for €3 you can also request a Certificate of Distance to show how far you’ve walked, and from where. I didn’t get a distance certificate this time but this is mine from the Central route.
Instructions for getting the Compostela
The system for collecting the Compostela has been streamlined in recent years, partly due to the increased number of walkers arriving in Santiago, so you’re unlikely to have to wait too long.
- You can register in advance which will give you a QR code although this isn’t necessary.
- Once at the pilgrim’s office you will need to present the QR code for entry to the office. If you haven’t registered in advance it’s not a problem as you can do it when you arrive.
- You then collect a ticket with another QR code – this is your line number. You can scan this to see how far you are from the front of the queue and how long you have to wait.
- Once your number is called you will need to show your credencial with all your sellos at which point you’ll be given your Compostela.
Pay your respects to St James for and thank him for keeping you safe on your journey
There are two ways of doing this. The first way is by taking the steps under the altar to visit his tomb. This small crypt contains the bones of St James and is accessed by a narrow staircase opposite the Holy Doors.
The second way is by heading up the steps behind the altar where there is a small statue – pilgrims can choose to either place a hand on him or embrace him from behind.
Attend pilgrim mass
There are special pilgrim masses four times a day (at 7.30am, 9.30am, 12 noon, and 7.30pm).
One of the things that most pilgrims want to witness when they come to mass is the swinging of the botafumeiro (incense burner). The botafumeiro in Santiago is one of the largest in the world and operates only on special occasions, unless you’re prepared to pay to see it. The official website of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela has a list of all the dates that you can see the swinging of the botafumeiro plus the information you need if you wish to request it outside of these dates.
Be aware that if you arrive in Santiago and plan to go straight to mass you won’t be allowed in with your backpack.
After my first Camino I was lucky to get a seat on the second row, and double lucky to see the botafumeiro in action.
This time I had to stand at the very back of the cathedral during mass but, again, got to see the swinging of the botafumeiro. I don’t think it matters where you are in the cathedral – it’s an amazing spectacle regardless.
If you want to see my video of the botafumeiro from my first Camino you’ll find it in this post.
If you need ideas for things to do in Santiago after the Camino or want to take a day trip to Finisterre and Muxia there’s lots of information in these posts.
Today’s Credencial Sellos
A busy day with five sellos – two from coffee stops, two from churches, and the most important of all from the pilgrim’s office.
If you want to walk the Camino but don’t know where to begin I’ve written this Camino Portugués planning guide which tells you everything you need to know and outlines all the steps you need to take to get you on your way.
Highlights of Day Thirteen
Arriving in Plaza del Obradoiro is obviously the high spot of every Camino and today was no exception. Even though this was my third arrival on foot into Santiago it was no less special than my first.
Lowlights of Day Thirteen
Just the obvious one – that it’s all over! Time to start thinking about which Camino route I can walk next!
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Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Coastal adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Day 2 – Praia de Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim
Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 4 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Day 6 – Caminha to Oia
Day 7 – Oia to Baiona
Day 8 – Baiona to Vigo
Day 9 – Vigo to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 12 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 13 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
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