Day five on the Camino Portugués between Viana do Castelo to Caminha was an improvement on day four’s wet and wild weather although you wouldn’t really have guessed that when we first set off.
We’d decided again to take the Senda Litoral and stay as close to the coast as possible rather than take the Coastal route which, for this section, is more inland until Vila Praia de Âncora.
Day Five: Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Date: Thursday 3 October 2024
Start Point: Casa Melo Alvim, Viana do Castelo
End Point: Aldeamento Turistico do Camarido, Caminha
Distance Walked: 16.96 miles (27.29 kms)
Time Taken: 7 hours 28 minutes (including rest stops)
Weather: Foggy with sun later in the day
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Leaving Viana do Castelo
Breakfast was included in our stay at Casa Melo Alvim so we weren’t in any hurry to set off, preferring to make the most of the breakfast buffet and enjoy some very tasty treats.
It was another grey sky morning with a light drizzle when we finally got on our way and, once again, it was impossible to see the Santuário de Santa Luzia overlooking the town as it was still shrouded in mist.
The way out of Viana do Castelo on the Senda Litoral was pretty straightforward and, once we were out of the town, we simply followed the boardwalks always keeping the ocean on our left. Along the way we passed ancient forts, windmills, and modern sculptures perfect for framing the ocean views.
We stopped for our first coffee break at Restaurante Areia which is right on the beach at Carreço. We were the only customers for some time but, by the time we were ready to leave, it was getting pretty busy with other pilgrims who’d also opted to walk the Senda Litoral out of Viana do Castelo.
Shortly after passing through Carreço the road went inland slightly and we walked up through the village of Montedor.
From here it was back downhill where we took a rocky path through the heather to Praia Forte De Paçó.
After a short stretch along the boardwalk we were back inland again where we walked on cobbled roads between fields of corn before turning back to the sea and reaching Praia de Afife.
Treading the boardwalks
From Afife we continued along the boardwalks, stopping briefly for a rest at the Forte do Cão. We’d been walking for several hours by this point and still hadn’t seen any hint of the sun. Thankfully, despite the grey clouds that had been hanging over us all morning there hadn’t been any rain and it wasn’t cold.
Back on our feet and the boardwalks continued through the dunes until, shortly before reaching Vila Praia de Âncora, they’d become covered in sand and we had to walk on the beach for a short time. By the time we reached the bridge taking us over the river to Vila Praia de Âncora there was a tiny bit of blue sky ahead of us – something we hadn’t seen for a few days!
We intended to stop here for lunch but the service in the restaurant we selected was really slow so after another quick coffee instead we decided to hit the road again.
The sun comes out
By now the sun was starting to come out – things were finally starting to look up weather wise!
Leaving Vila Praia de Âncora we walked right alongside the coast passing some interesting sculptures along the way. At one point we also spotted some swings that had been placed right by the beach so, of course, we had to stop for a swing and to admire the view.
This stretch is on the Ecovia Litoral Norte which is a paved route so it’s easy underfoot. There still weren’t many other pilgrims but we did share the path with some Shetland ponies at one point and, as we got closer to Caminha, we got the occasional glimpse of Spain in the distance.
Arriving in Caminha
At Moledo we had a choice of taking the road or following the arrows through the forest so decided to take the forest path rather than have to walk alongside a main road. The path through the forest was lovely especially as the weather had improved. However, halfway through we realised that, if we continued to the end, we’d have to backtrack to get to the accommodation that we’d booked. If we’d taken the road, we’d have walked right to the apartment we were staying in but, of course, we hadn’t considered this when we started walking.
So out came Google maps and we decided to cut across the forest – this wasn’t the brightest idea as we ended up having to cross a busy road, battle our way through some undergrowth, and then cross a railway line.
We were staying at Aldeamento Turistico do Camarido, a holiday complex on the outskirts of Caminha. By the time we were checked in we were more than ready for a hot shower and a rest. Christine also had some cuts on her leg to deal with thanks to our short cut through the forest.
If you decide to stay here, it’s easiest if you take the road from Moledo as you’ll pass right by the entrance to the complex. However, if you do want to take the forest path, I’d suggest you carry on until the end and then take the road back towards Moledo.
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Coastal route of the Camino Portugués here.
Exploring Caminha
We were staying slightly outside of Caminha itself so there was no opportunity to go exploring the town. I’d visited previously (in fact, Caminha is where my first Coastal Camino had ended – you can read about the reasons why and the mistakes I made in this post).
Set on the edge of the Rio Minho it has an interesting old town which is worth a wander if you have the time. There are old city walls that you can walk along, plus several interesting old churches and a lovely town square with a fountain at its centre.
We celebrated our final night in Portugal with a meal in the restaurant at Hotel Porta do Sol, a large hotel just a fairly short walk from our accommodation and right on the water’s edge.
Today’s Credencial Sellos
Just the two sellos again today – the first from Restaurante Areia and the second from Aldeamento Turistico do Camarido.
If you want to walk the Camino but don’t know where to begin I’ve written this Camino Portugués planning guide which tells you everything you need to know and outlines all the steps you need to take to get you on your way.
Highlights of Day Five
Walking by the sea was lovely, particularly the stretch from Vila Praia de Âncora to Caminha when the sun had decided to show its face.
Lowlights of Day Five
No particular lowlights today – even setting off in the drizzle wasn’t too bad in comparison to the weather we’d had the previous day.
Getting lost on the way to our accommodation wasn’t exactly a high point of the day but it makes for a funny story so I can’t complain too much!
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Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Coastal adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Day 2 – Praia de Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim
Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 4 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Day 6 – Caminha to Oia
Day 7 – Oia to Baiona
Day 8 – Baiona to Vigo
Day 9 – Vigo to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 12 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 13 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
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