Two years after first walking the Camino Portugués I was back for more. Last time I’d walked the Central route but this time I was planning to take the Senda Litoral and Coastal route all the way from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. However, for the first day I would be retracing my steps by following the path alongside the river Douro and later the Atlantic Ocean from Porto to Praia de Angeiras.
Day One: Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Date: Sunday 29 September 2024
Start Point: Cathedral, Porto
End Point: Blue Beach Apartment, Praia de Angeiras
Distance Walked: 14.67 miles (23.61 kms)
Time Taken: 6 hours 40 minutes (including rest stops)
Weather: Sunny
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This time I only arrived in Porto the day before setting off so, while I didn’t do any sightseeing on this occasion, I did head to the Cathedral to buy my credencial.
If you do have time to see the sights this post has plenty of ideas of things to do in Porto before the Camino
Getting my Credencial
A credencial (or pilgrim passport) is an essential piece of kit if you’re walking to Santiago de Compostela, regardless of which route you’re taking, as it’s the official document that shows you’re a pilgrim and entitles you to stay in albergues along the way, as well as receive your Compostela at the end.
Along the way you fill your credencial with sellos (stamps) which you show in the Pilgrim Office in Santiago to prove your eligibility for the Compostela.
I bought my credencial at the Cathedral in Porto for €2. You can also buy a scallop shell to hang on your backpack at the same place but I still had mine from last time.
You can read more Camino lingo you need to know before you go here.
The Night Before
This time I was walking with a friend so we had a pre-Camino celebratory meal at Casa Vegetariana in Mercado do Bolhão. By day the market on the lower floor is the place to come for your fruit, veg, fish, meat, and flowers. By night the ground floor is deserted but the upper floor, where several restaurants are situated, is buzzing.
We had a delicious spinach and ricotta tortellini and a glass of vinho verde, the local wine.
While I’d been nervous and barely slept the night before my first Camino (fear of the unknown I guess), this time I didn’t have the same problem and woke up feeling refreshed and ready to hit the road. We were using a luggage transfer service rather than carrying our packs so, after leaving them in reception, we were off to the Cathedral ready to start our journey.
There are a few companies offering luggage transfer services on the Camino Portugués. We used Pilbeo who I would recommend for their reliable and cost-effective service.
An obligatory selfie at the way marker in front of the Cathedral and we were on our way.
Leaving Porto
There are three official routes of the Camino Portugués and this time I was walking a mix of the Senda Litoral and Coastal route.
This route out of Porto involves following the Douro river as far as Foz do Douro where it then runs parallel to the Atlantic Ocean.
The easiest way to get to the river is to take the steps in the far corner of the square in front of the cathedral. These lead down through narrow alleyways until you hit the waterfront. Once you’re there just keep the river or sea to your left and you can’t really go wrong. Finding and following the yellow arrows comes later!
This time around it was a lovely sunny day as I said goodbye to Porto, and we made good progress admiring the old, tiled buildings that line the banks of the river. As it was a Sunday morning it was quite busy with weekend walkers although I did spot the odd pilgrim or two as well.
Reaching Foz do Douro it was time to leave the river behind and follow the path alongside the Atlantic Ocean. Last time it was grey and overcast with wild angry waves but this time the sea was much calmer – maybe I’d actually get to have a swim, or at least a paddle, on this Camino. Spoiler alert, this did NOT happen!
There’s a wide footpath that stretches along the coast but we cut down into Jardim dos Ingleses to walk through the park and stopped for a coffee at Restaurante Praia da Luz which has a lovely setting by the sea.
Suitably caffeinated we were soon back on our way enjoying the walk alongside the ocean.
As we got closer to Matosinhos we decided to walk on the beach. On the day there was a TV crew filming as locals tried to beat a record for the most people surfing a wave. Not sure if they broke the record but it was fun to watch.
Reaching Matosinhos
Arriving in Matosinhos we called in at the Tourist Information Centre for another stamp in our credencials. The Tourist Information Centre has gone high tech with their stamps and, as well as the usual rubber stamp and inkpad method, they now also have an adhesive stamp with a QR code – handy if you’re staying in Matosinhos and want to see what there is to do in and around the town.
Many pilgrims start in Matosinhos rather than walk along the river from Porto as it’s easily accessible by bus or tram from the city centre and, similar to my last Camino, we started to see more pilgrims on the road from this point.
The path from the tourist office veers inland slightly through a park past the Zimbório do Senhor do Padrão (Lantern Tower of Senhor do Padrão) and over the river via the Ponte Movel de Leça before turning back towards the coast.
From here the way is mostly along footpaths and boardwalks. It’s a lovely walk with plenty of places of interest along the way including the Faro da Boa Nova (Boa Nova lighthouse), Capela da Boa Nova which is situated on a little rocky outcrop, and the Obelisco da Memoria.
In Lavra we stopped for coffee in Marias de Praia Beach House – another great place right by the ocean.
Arriving in Praia de Angeiras
We arrived in Praia de Angeiras at around 3pm which coincided with all the nearby restaurants closing for the day. Almost without exception staff were sweeping floors, putting chairs on tables, and shutting their doors. Bear this in mind if you’re going to be walking on a Sunday.
Praia de Angeiras is a small fishing village with a collection of colourful houses along the seafront. We were staying in Blue Beach Apartment, one block from the beach on the main road through the small town.
You can read about all my accommodation choices on the Coastal route here.
Blue Beach is a lovely modern apartment with a nice outdoor space. After checking in and having a well-earned hot shower we set off to find some food and, thankfully, we did find a small supermarket that was still open so were able to buy enough provisions for a meal which we ate out on the terrace enjoying the sun.
Later I went off for a walk along the beach to watch the sunset before retiring for an early night – I’d forgotten just how tired I get after a day of walking
Today’s Credencial Sellos
My first sello was from the Cathedral in Porto. If you buy your credencial in the Cathedral it’s actually pre-stamped. My second and third were from the Tourist Information Centre in Matosinhos.
I didn’t get one from my accommodation as we were staying in an apartment with self-check-in.
If you want to walk the Camino but don’t know where to begin I’ve written this Camino Portugués planning guide which tells you everything you need to know and outlines all the steps you need to take to get you on your way.
Highlights of Day One
It was lovely to be back on the road with Christine after walking the last 100 kms of the Camino Francés from Sarria to Santiago with her earlier in the year.
Following the river and the ocean is definitely the best way to get out of Porto and, even though it was busy as it was a weekend, the paths and boardwalks never felt crowded.
Lowlights of Day One
No lowlights today – it was ideal walking weather and, unlike last time, I was walking a slightly shorter distance and using a luggage transfer service so I only had a daypack to carry.
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Bom Caminho/Buen Camino
Follow my Camino Portugués Coastal adventure:
Day 1 – Porto to Praia de Angeiras
Day 2 – Praia de Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim
Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 4 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
Day 6 – Caminha to Oia
Day 7 – Oia to Baiona
Day 8 – Baiona to Vigo
Day 9 – Vigo to Redondela
Day 10 – Redondela to Pontevedra
Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 12 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 13 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
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That was stunning Alison. I felt I was there with you, the views were beautiful. I couldn’t keep up with you now though, but it was great to see what you see on these walks. I get a bit nervous too for you when you go on your travels. See you soon. Take care. Lots of love. Mumxx